Hike: Mt St Helens Summit, Cougar, WA

Getting There

From Portland: Take I-5 N for 28 miles to Woodland. Take Exit 21 for WA-503 E to Cougar. Follow Lewis River Road (WA-503) for 30 miles. Continue east for another 3.4 miles past Cougar on Road 90 and take NF-83 for Ape Cave/Climber's Bivouac. Take this road for 3 mile then turn left on FS-81 for 0.4 miles. Turn right onto Road 830 (dirt/gravel) and take that to Climber's Bivouac (2.2 miles).

I was not in the best mood when I left Portland. I'd woken up early for my bi-monthly counseling session then gone back to bed. I didn't wake up until about noon. Feeling stressed by the whole thing. Why did I put this pressure on myself? Deep inside I knew I had to try, heck just a night of camping was better than staying home.

I was going to stop at Mali Thai Cafe to get some Chicken Pad Thai but made a decision to skip it this time. I'd gotten an Asian noodle salad from New Seasons. I wanted to pasta-like food to "carb load". I stopped for gas in Woodland and continued to trailhead.

In Cougar, I stopped at the rest stop for a bio-break, then popped over to the Lakeside Country Store to get some money for camping. I got a Chicken Bake, a couple bottles of water, and 3 snack bars (dark chocolate w/ cashews & cherries). The total was like $17.50.. crap. I still needed a $5 bill. I told the cashier that I needed to buy more stuff but she said she could break my $20 bill. I told her I appreciated it and thanked her as I left the store.

Next stop: Climber's Bivouac!

My "usual" spots were already taken as I drove the small loop. I ended up back near the trailhead, across from the loo.

I made my bed in the back of the Jeep and got my book out to read. I overheard several hikers who had seemingly chaperoned another hiker back to camp. They'd split up from their group and had gotten lost in the twilight, and lost their phone. Just 5 or 10 minutes later the rest of their group made it back. They were relieved to find their friend. One person apologized for bailing on the lone friend. Not great that they split up but also the friend shouldn't have waited for their group to summit and return down the route to reunite. I thought about introducing myself as an MSHI volunteer and offer to post a note on the FB page about the missing phone. I decided it was none of my business. They were going to post a note to the sign-in board.

When it got cooler, I closed up the back and crawled into my cocoon, hoping I could get some sleep. My mattress pad had already deflated a bit. Not sure why. I blew more air in it and tried to get comfortable. (I really need to get a bigger air mattress for the Jeep.)

I didn't sleep that well but good enough. I woke several times during the night. Around 5-6am, I noticed some cars arriving. I noticed a car parked right behind me even though there were plenty of open spot across the way; it annoyed me a bit. (This happened at WCF: I was the first car in the lot with 100 spots and the next car to arrive parked right next to me!)

I was feeling reluctant to get up but I had to use the loo. From inside the car, it looked cold but in reality it wasn't bad at all, maybe 60 deg F. I took care of business and started to get ready. I packed my gear, made a sandwich, ate some pasta salad and drank 1/2 a Guayakí tea. Before putting on my pack, I wandered over to the trailhead and filled out an entry in the climbing logbook.

I could see a golden light hitting the tops of the trees. It was time to go! I hit the trail at about 7:15 am. 

The Hike

Distance: 8.15 miles
Elevation Gain: 4540 feet
Started: 7:00 am
Ended: 3:00 pm
Duration: 8 hours 
    • 4h 15m ascent
    • 30m on the rim
    • 3h 15m descent 

 

 

The Forest 

This first picture was taken at around 7:30 am, about 30min into my hike. It didn't seem to take long at all to reach this point. I was feeling okay but still a bit unsure if I was ready to complete the hike all the way to the top. I was already giving myself permission to only part of the way. However, I noted that I had already passed a couple of groups of hikers that had started before me. 

I tried to make a point of enjoying the journey and not solely focusing on the goal.

The Boulders

I made quick work of the first set of boulders and started heading up the ridgeline. A couple passed me and disappeared in front of me. I told myself I didn't need to match anyone's pace, I was only my own time, and I had plenty.

In reviewing my photos, I didn't take that many pics on the route, just trying to do my best through the obstacles. To my (relative) surprise, I wasn't as winded as I'd been on the Herman Creek hike. 

I tried to keep my focus on the next lodge pole and picking good intervals to rest, hydrate, and have a snack to keep my energy up. 

The Vertical Beach

This is the last section of the hike and I was glad to be here. No more climbing up and over boulders. Just the loose pumice sand. A faint trail zigzagged up the mountain towards the rim. I could see people on the route and along the top. I could even make out colors, of clothing, of backpacks.

I was in the good spirits. I briefly recalled where I'd turned back in 2022 but knew I was gonna make it this time (again, for the 3rd time). Some hikers that were faster than me cruised by but it didn't bother me in the least. I was going as fast as I could, as I needed to. I remembered myself that everyone that I could see in the distance had been where I was now.

My legs felt good, my oxygen was good, my attitude was good. The only thing that was a bit challenging was the wind. By this time in the hike, I'd donned my goggles. In fact, much lower down, I thought the grit that was getting into my eye was going to be a bigger issue.

Somewhere along the way I started counting my paces: sets of 20 steps and a short break. After 3 sets, I would drink some water. I was out of liquid electrolytes but still had chewables in my pocket. 

The people ahead of me and on the rim were getting bigger. I estimated I had 20 more sets of 20 to go. After 10 sets, I took another rest and water break, no more than 30 or 40 secs. I mumbled to myself, "I'm gonna make it, I'm gonna make it!".

This time, I didn't stop. I powered through 5 sets of 20.

The Summit

In the last set, I counted to myself. "17-18-19-20"... viola! I was peering out over the crater, Spirit Lake, and Mt Rainier in the distance. Fach ya! "You did it, Larry" I reminded myself. I could barely see Coldwater Peak but everything west of there was hidden behind a huge wall of dust. The wind I'd been experiencing on the climb had been coming from the east. It was difficult to determine was direction the wind was blowing at the opening of the crater to stir up so much ash/pumice. The Glacier Overlook was hard to find but I could just make it out below. 

I thought briefly about traversing to the "true summit" as I had done that first year in 2021 but the wind was blowing too hard. It didn't feel safe even though I could see two climbers making there way back to where I was. I'd told myself I'd revisit the "true summit" this year but you have to trust your instinct. Another climber that I'd chatted with on the way echoed my concern.  

I only stayed on the summit for about 30 mins. I wasn't even hungry for my sandwich. I do regret not lingering for longer. I mean, I did go all that way. Way down below and in the days leading up to this hike I'd contemplated that I should enjoy this hike to the fullest as there were no guarantees I'd be able to make the journey again, possibly due to health reasons. However, standing the edge, I assured myself, I'll go to the "true summit" next time. I was sure there would be a "next time". 

The Descent

Again, I didn't take many photos on the way down. I do remember seeing a few people from one of the groups I'd seen on the trail below the treeline, I'd take a few group photos and one person had asked about my InReach.

Additionally, on the vertical beach, I passed a guy hiking up that was a fellow MSHI volunteer, a Climbing Steward, on a personal climb. I'd spotted the circular patch on his pack and introduced myself. Sadly, as I'm bad with names with sufficient repetition, I don't remember who it was.

This time, I opted to stay closer to the marked trail instead of take my "express" route on the other side of the ravine. I was getting tired but still had a lot of rocks to get over, through.

Finally, I reached the turn in the trail and final descent to the wooded part of the hike. I was so excited to reach dirt again. Under my breath I repeated, "I'm almost there, I'm almost there." I continued down cautiously but determined. I didn't want to slip this close to the forest, non-technical part of my descent.

I made it! I high-fived the "Permit Require above this elevation" sign.

Back Through The Forest

The last section of the journey is easier but no cake walk. My legs were aching and I had to step down over numerous roots that didn't seem so back in the other direction, up. It was hard on the knees and I used my hiking poles as best I could to cushion the deep steps down.

This part of the hike seemed to go forever even though it was the same 2 miles that seemed to be over quickly in the morning as I was getting started. Funny how perception changes, the ol' Summit Fever.

I was longing to reach the end. I made it to the top and back down without incident. I was glad I didn't have those Scarpas mountaineering boots that I rented last year.

The End 

I remember being so excited to reach the sign near the trailhead that said "Permits required". I was even more excited to see the WAG bag disposal (LOL). I had grabbed a bear horn that has been hanging off a branch about 1/4 mile up. I finally reached the trailhead and quietly whispered to myself "I made it!".

I hung the bear horn in the kiosk, leafed through the log book to find my entry and scribble my return time.

The other two cars that had been parked ahead and behind me were gone. I took my time to remove my boots and wet sun shirt. I shoved my bedding out of the way and tossed my pack in the back of the Jeep. I changed into my street clothes.

Driving down the bumpy road, my next goal was to reach pavement again.

The drive back to Woodland was routine like after all those trail work parties. I was extra worn out but satisfied with my accomplishment.

What's next? Mt Adams, South Sister? TBD. 

Hike: Herman Creek, Cascade Locks, OR

Getting There

Take I-84 eastbound from Portland to Cascade Locks. Drive through town on Wa Na Pa Street. (You can also take the exit after Cascade Locks ("the exit toward Weigh Station"). Follow the Frontage Road for about 1.7 miles to the Herman Creek Campground and Trailhead (Herman Creek Road). The small parking lot is 0.3 miles from the turnoff.

The parking lot wasn't quite full even though it's small, there was a spot near the bathroom. There weren't any cars over the construction area where I parked last time.

The Hike

Length: 8.66 mi
Elev. gain: 2,976 ft
Moving time: 3:52:18
Avg pace: 26:50
Calories: 2,047
Total time: 4:22:27 

Herman Creek Trail #406 > Nick Eaton Trail #447 > Ridge Cutoff Trail #437 > Gorton Creek Trail #408 

 

 

 

Last time I came here, I got some poison oak on my wrists which got infected. My selective memory forgot that while I didn't go off trail, it is pretty overgrown in places. 

This time, I was in a short-sleeved shirt and was bushwhacking through several sections. Those section were moderate to "I can't see my feet" overgrown.

This was going to be a health/fitness check before my upcoming annual summit attempt of Mt St Helens next week. I haven't been hiking much besides the trail work parties. I've had some health issues like vertigo (again!) and heart palpitations (maybe??). I wore a heart monitor for a week and did the Glacier Overlook Hike with MSHI and one trail work party on the Loowit.

This hike was about what I remembered from March except for how overgrown it is in places. It climbs nearly 3000 ft (~900m) in 3.8 miles (~6.1km). My heart was beating pretty hard and felt like I wasn't quite getting enough O2 but I soldiered on. I was happy to reach the Ridge Cutoff (#437) junction hear the unnamed high point off the Nick Eaton Trail (#447). 

I swore I heard voices but it was probably the phantom noises from my water bottle. Not the first time I've imagined human-like voices.

I double backed to the Ridge Cutoff and continued my lollipop loop towards Indian Point. 

Again, I deferred going down there to "next time" (if ever). I did see a guy on the river side of the point. High exposure, at least for my angle. I whistled a couple of time and waved by he didn't look up. Probably for the best. I had a nightmarish thought of distracting the guy and seeing him fall. I watched him cautiously make his way along the ridge (safely) and continued my hike when I saw he'd reached the trees.

The Gorton Creek trail is gorgeous. It does have some sections that were likely part of the Eagle Creek fire in 2017 but the trees I noticed along the trail were still alive and had lots of greenery at the top even though the bark was blackened.

When I got back to the Herman Creek Campground, I saw a mountain biker starting a descent on the Gorge Trail (#400). I was happy to have completed the loop section of my hike and was heading back to the car.

On the way down, I stopped and stepped off the trail to allow more mountain bikers heading uphill. 

The hike was a success. Not only was it great to return to this area of the Gorge but I felt good. Besides a deep worry about my lungs, my legs did fine. I feel ready to tackle MSH knowing the challenge is slanted the mental game. 

  

Hike: God's Thumb via The Knoll, Lincoln City, OR

Getting There

One thing is for sure, don't follow the Google directions!

"This is not a hiking trail. I made the mistake of following the directions. It led me to a private residence. The residence's owner is not a kind man. He stood and blocked my vehicle from exiting his property while scolding me about Google." 

Geezus christ! I used AllTrails to find the "correct" trailhead. In fact there are two. The preferred option is the The Knoll Open Space Trailhead, a cul-de-sac on NE Devils Lake Blvd. There were a bunch of cars parallel parked but I kept going the end of the road and found an open spot, IN THE SHADE, near the trailhead.

From Hwy 101, take NW Logan Road north towards Roads End. When the road begins to veer left, go straight onto NE Port Lane which curves 90 deg R. Continue on NE Voyage Ave to the junction with NE Devils Lake Blvd. Go left to the cul-de-sac. 

The Hike

Length: 4.98 mi
Elev. gain: 1,109 ft
Moving time: 2:00:53
Avg pace: 24:15
Calories: 1,065
Total time: 2:11:15 

I thought about doing this hike the day before, Sunday, because I'd planned to drive north to hike Cape Lookout Trail, south of Tillamook, on Monday. However, it just did some exploring along the coast on both ends of Lincoln City. It was surprised by the humidity despite the temperatures being moderate (70s?). By early afternoon, all I wanted was a shower! I booked a hotel while eating breakfast but had 4-5 hours before check-in.

On my morning walk along the beach north of Roads End, I could see tiny dots (people) on the Thumb. I knew it wasn't a big hike but offered gorgeous views. 

I got a later start on Monday morning. I returned to the same restaurant for the same breakfast (ham & cheese omelette, coffee). I'd gone for a walk in the morning for coffee only to find drive-thru-only places. I even popped my head into a Pig 'N Pancake but the wait was 20+ mins. Fuck that!

On my way, I had to make a few stops: the auto parts store for a seat cover (I knew I was gonna be sweaty after the hike), the grocery store (electrolytes, lunch, dude wipes), a visit to the public loo at Roads End.

By noon, I was ready to go and made my way to the trailhead.

While I was getting ready, I noticed a couple emerging from the trees to the left of the trailhead. I saw it was a more direct route to the Knoll and Thumb but also included some road walking. I saw the counterclockwise route was longer but maybe better.

Four casual hikers were milling around the trailhead signs with their clean tennis shoes and small water bottles. I noted my gear (big day pack with 10 essentials, lots of water and snacks.) I thought about them as I ascended some steep grades.

When I reached the junction for the Knoll and Thumbs, marked by a user on the bottom of a sign, I found the route to the Thumb. If it's merely a "social trail" it's well established from years (decades?) of use, very easy to follow, albeit overgrown in some spots.

I passed several groups of hikers and continue towards my first destination. You can't see God's Thumb until you are almost on top of it at the Lookout, and even then, you have to start going down a steep, rutted trail. 

I know there are some appeals asking hikers to stop at the lookout and not add to the erosion. I chose to go ahead anyway. My justification is weak but I felt like I wasn't adding the erosion (maybe when it's wet and slippery). 

I followed down the hill behind a group of three but took a slightly different route, thus passing them. I zoomed up to the top of the Thumb. The views were incredible. I only stayed up there for a few minutes, as the group of three was making their way up.

I hiked back to the junction and continued on towards the Knoll. More incredible views but less impressive than the Thumb. Maybe would have been slightly better to start with the Knoll and finish with the Thumb. Maybe not.

I saw on the map that there was trail going down the stop hill off the end of the Knoll which reconnected with the main trail. Well, it's there but only a boot-width and a bit hard to follow when you get into the trees.

At only point, I lost the trail. Fortunately, I heard some voices from hikers on the main trail and eventually saw them. I found the trail and rejoined.

I got to a gate and continued back to the trailhead on a gravel road, NE Sal la Sea Drive. I'm glad I took the route I did and didn't start the hike on the road. 2/100ths of a mile shy of 5 miles and just over 1000 ft of elevation gain. So glad I did it.

Unfortunately, I skipped my hike to Cape Lookout. Another time!

Some fun with photo editing: