Friday, January 24, 2025

Hike: Coyote Wall, Bingen, WA

Getting There

Another later start. I kind of had a plan to stay in the Gorge but wasn't sure. My initial plan was to hike Dog Mountain, however, after I crossed the bridge in Hood River, my mind immediately went to the work party at Lyle-Cherry Orchard. 

I was driving east on Hwy 14 and passed the Coyote Wall trailhead. I'd seen this place on Instagram posts (or maybe Portland Hikers on FB). New plan. I did a u-turn and drove back to the parking lot. It was about 75% full but no one was around. I looked for a trail near the parking lot but didn't see anything. 

I geared up, stowed what I could under the backseat and set out on the frontage road.

The Hike

Length: 7.28 mi
Elev. gain: 1,644 ft
Moving time: 2:44:00
Avg pace: 22:32
Calories: 1,445
Total time: 3:23:39









The paved frontage road had rocks and boulders from the rocks above. I knew there must be a trail around here somewhere! Eureka! I found it. I'd stopped that signage at the trailhead and knew there was a network of trails to choose from. 

As I started my ascent, I noticed some hikers coming from the west. I figured they'd done some kind of loop so I went right and started what I guessed was a counterclockwise loop. The trail was pretty muddy and I saw tire tracks immediately. A few hundred yards above me, I noticed some hikers, so I knew I was on the right path: I didn't want to stray too far east.

From down below, it was difficult to see the "top", if there was one. Upward and onward.

From the USFS website for this area:

"A massive formation of columnar basalt, Coyote Wall is one of the Columbia River Gorge's most recognizable features from all directions. Known around the Gorge as "The Syncline", local amateur geologists enjoy debating its proper geological classification over a craft brew.

From Coyote Wall Trailhead, bikers, hikers, and riders can access a 30+ mile network trails with an open feel and breath-taking views. Trails include:

Mountain bikers love the range of mountain biking challenges which reward those who climb the trails with amazing panoramas of the Gorge! Naturalists can appreciate the diverse population of rare and sensitive plants found here. The thin, fragile soils were created by Missoula floods, and the habitat remains important for wildlife species.

Please avoid the area directly below Coyote Wall to the west, as it is private land. Trails in the area have been gradually rehabilitated in recent years according to a long-term site management plan, so user-created trails that once damaged natural resources are being decomissioned. New signs make it easy to stay on official trails, but use maps with caution as most are now out of date. (This planning map shows temporary names used during the planning process to label approved trails.) Today's signs do not match the shorthand codes, but they do make it easy to stay on official trails. Please respect signs indicating decommissioned trails and sensitive areas under restoration."

When I reached the highest point of the loop, I noticed some hikers above me. I thought I could get a bit more elevation and maybe better views. As I continued further, the trail gets close the edge of the Coyote Wall cliff. I saw on the trail map that there is a loop. Unfortunately, part of it on private land. I wasn't sure if this just a technicality and the public could pass through.

I kept pace with the couple of hikers I'd seen earlier. Eventually, the trail disappears into the trees. I was surprised when I saw them coming in the other direction. I was hoping to follow them on the loop.

When I reached Atwood Road, I realized the sun was getting lower and if I continued, I'd probably be descending below the wall in darkness. I decided it was better to go back the way I came, enjoy the views and sunshine. Wise choice.

At some point, I caught up with those hikers. I didn't want to crowd them so I picked an alternate route down. About 30 mins later, I caught up again when the two trails converged. I stopped to take some pictures and let them gain some distance.

I descended along the Coyote Wall Trail #4428 (Co1), zigzagging through the rocky switchbacks. Several folks were coming up the trail.

I was happy to reach that frontage road again. I still had plenty of sunlight. Great to hike somewhere new.












Post Hike

I knew I was gonna stay the night in Hood River so I headed east on Hwy 14 to cross the river near The Dalles. I'd gone this route when I left the Lyle-Cherry Orchard work party. The town of Lyle was further east that I'd remembered. There was huge Trump 2024 billboard. Ugh! Fuck that guy and his crony oligarchs.

Anywho. I continued on my way. Oddly, I didn't even notice the Lyle-Cherry Orchard trailhead. I think when I went this direction last time, I'd taken the road towards the dam but turned around and went further east past Maryhill and crossed over the Hwy 97. This time I kept going south on Hwy 197. When I reached Dallesport Road, I stopped dead in my tracks: the setting sun was behind Mt Hood.

I drove a ways west to try to find a better location to take a picture with the foreground. By the time I got there, the sun had moved but it was still beautiful.



 

Monday, January 6, 2025

Hike: Devil's Rest via Wahkeena Creek, Corbett, OR

Getting There

The weather was amazing, the temp were in the upper 50s and blue skies for miles. Recently, it's been pretty rainy so I jumped at the chance to get outdoors.

I took I-84 east and parked in the Multnomah Falls parking lot between the eastbound and westbound lanes. Plus, real or imagined, I'm guessing this parking lot is "safer" due to high turnover and cameras.

The lot was about 1/2 way full, plenty of open spots.

The Hike

Length: 9.84 mi
Elev. gain: 2,582 ft
Moving time: 4:36:41
Avg pace: 28:07
Calories: 2,438
Total time: 4:58:42









It was so good to get out on a hike, my first of 2025. As I mentioned in my previous post, I hadn't really done much hiking since Oct, when I was in Bend, OR. I did a hike up Eagle Creek at the beginning of November, then I got sick at the beginning of December, which lasted the whole month. I did a hike up Hamilton Mtn on New Year's Eve.

I parked at Multnomah Falls and hiked the Return Trail to Wahkeena Falls. It's a good thing, since the parking was full, that I opted for ample parking. At this point, I didn't know if I was going to do the Wahkeena-Multnomah loop or something else. I was sort of keen on reaching Devil's Rest but that depended on how I felt.

Just around the corner from Wahkeena Falls, there was a rock slide over the paved trail but it was easy enough to step through on the edge.

On the switchbacks, I passed a group of three college kids, one wearing Chuck Taylors. While waiting for them to pass by, I noticed an old trail marker for the Perdition Trail. I've never heard of this trail but it was obviously defunct, or at least unmaintained by TKO or parks.

Rock slide at the start of the switchbacks

Sign for defunct trail

First bridge crossing over Wahkeena Creek

There was a sprinkling of hikers doing the clockwise loop. At Fairy Falls, I met a woman that was hesitant to cross through the creek. The crossing needs some repairs. She said she was going to watch how I crossed. I did and stopped on the other side to make sure she made it through safely. When she reached where I was, I gave her a fist bump and celebrated her success. I wished her well on the rest of her hike.

I keep pushing steadily to the apex of the trail. I paused briefly to consider my options. I felt good and had lots of energy in reserve. Fuck it. I'm heading to Devil's Rest. A few feet up the trail, a kid passed me but stopped to ask about the views and trail options. I said Devil's Rest was in the trees but that Angel's Rest overlooks the river. He didn't have any gear, water, maps, phone?, just a beanie. Who am I to say? 

When the Devil's Rest trail leveled out, the sun was out and it was nice & warm. Gorgeous colors.

Sunshine on the Devil's Rest Trail

Loving the colors

More gorgeous colors

I passed a few more people on the trail. One pair said I was almost there (true) and another guy with 3 small dogs told me about the trail options. I said thanks and wished them all well.

At the top, I paused briefly to snap a couple of photos but didn't stay long. I thought I might eat lunch but wanted to start the trip back since I was losing light. The whole Oregon side of the river was in shade due to low winter sun.

Last time I was there, I descended down the front of hillside but ended up on the Devil's Slide, a very steep route. I still wanted to check out the Vista Point viewpoint and taking this route would have put be below it. I made my way around the rocks and found the Primrose Path, which reconnects with the Devil's Rest Trail and is the safer way to descend down the front.

Devil's Rest Summit

Devil's Rest Summit


Mt Adams

Mt St Helens

Finally made it to the Vista Viewpoint. I'd stopped several times to clear some small trees over the trail and cut off jagged remains of the branches that were hazards when climbing over larger logs.

The sun was going down and it was getting dark quickly. I had two flashlights but I could still see well enough without. I knew it'd get darker when I go lower into the canopy.

East: Columbia River, Archer Mtn, Beacon Rock/Hamilton

West: Columbia River, Cape Horn

Thanks to the long exposure on the iPhone 15 Pro, this photo came out really well despite the low light.

Wahkeena Falls

My hike back to the parking lot on the Return Trail was almost too dark to see the ground and tripping hazards but I still didn't want to stop to find my flashlight. I made it without incident. There were quite a few cars still in the parking lot. 

Great hike to start the new year.

Tuesday, December 31, 2024

2024: My Year in Review


Another trip around the sun! I kept my same hiking goals from previous years: 52 hikes, 365 miles, 84,000 feet. However, I came up short this year, and that's okay. After my trip to Bend, OR in October, I only hiked two more times. I wasn't very consistent counting trail work as hikes: I included some but not others. Happily, I squeezed in a hike up Hamilton Mountain on New Year's Eve.


Some highlights from 2024 were related to my volunteering. This was my second year as a hiking steward with the Mount St Helens Institute and first season as a mentor on the south side of the monument: 83 Road and Ape Cave. I also assisted on some guided hikes: I did the Glacier Overlook Hike three times.


And, I continued to volunteer with Washington Trails Association (WTA) and Trailkeepers of Oregon (TKO), including some multi-day work parties and log outs (as a swamper). I earned my WTA fleece vest in September for doing 25 work parties. In October, I earned my A-level sawyer certification from TKO. I also volunteered with the Cascade Forest Conservancy (CFC), planting trees to improve salmon habitats.

 

WTA: Monte Carlo trailhead, WA
 
TKO Sawyer Training: Fish Creek, OR

CFC: Camp Creek, WA

Why 52 hikes?

This description from the last two years is still accurate so why reinvent the wheel. There are a lot of hiking challenges "out there", one being the 52 hike challenge. I thought this aligned well with my new targets and I liked the symmetry with the calendar.


Unlike the previous three years ('21, '22, '23), I didn't do any conditioning hikes in Forest Park & only a few in Beacon Rock State Park, though the latter remains one of my favorite destinations under an hour. These hikes are great for keeping in shape and bumping up my stats.

Why 365 miles?

In 2022, I adjusted my distance goal from 500 miles to 365. I liked the symmetry with the calendar and of course, it works out to 1 mile per day. My hikes have tended to be shorter than usual and my average distance this year is about 6 miles per hike so that means I have to exceed the 52 hikes to reach the mileage goal.

What destinations are 365 miles from Portland?

Mt Shasta, CA is about 365 miles via I-5. It's about the same as a round trip to Seattle, WA (at least by highway).


Elsewhere in the US, for example, it's exactly 365 miles from Moab, UT to Albuquerque, NM.

 

Google Maps

Why 84,000 feet?

This goal was somewhat arbitrary. This works out to 7000 ft per month. 52 hikes at 1600 ft per hike calculates to 83,200 ft. I preferred the symmetry with the number of months in a year. I also knew many of my hikes would be a bit more in the 2000 ft range so I could take some hikes without much elevation gain and still not fall behind on the goals.

What is it like at 84,000 feet high (15.9 mi/25.6 km)?

 "At 84,000 feet, MSU’s balloon was above 98 percent of the Earth’s atmosphere." (source)

Montana State University students

Reflections

I had some health issues this year that set me back on my hiking goals but I still had a full year of adventure and community service. I'm glad to have reached the summit of Mt St Helens again, as well as explore some new trails.

 

"When you get to the top of the mountain keep climbing." 

-Zen proverb 

Mt St Helens Institute (MSHI) [↗]

Volcano Naturalist Program

This was my second year with MSHI as a mountain steward and I wanted to take things up a notch. I spent my Tuesday nights from the end of January to the end of April, plus three field trips. Every week we learned about the geology, flora & fauna, cultural significance, the 1980 eruption and succession from a wide range of scientists, community leaders, and other professionals. It was great to meet others in the program in person for our field trips: MSH Visitor Center, a special visit to Ape Cave in the off-season, and the Hummocks. I did my best to spur conversation during breakouts on Zoom, answer questions about the volunteering, and represent the Institute to fans, supporters, and potential new mountain stewards.

 


Mountain Steward Training

Just a few weeks after the Naturalist class, training started for volunteers. Even though I hadn't done any shifts at the visitor centers, it was good to go through the all-day Ambassador training and meet other volunteers. A couple weeks after that, we had our Zoom training, followed by the in-person training at Science and Learning Center at Coldwater (SLC). Since I had signed up to be a Mentor, I was tasked to give a brief overview of the role and responsibilities for the south side of the monument. I was nervous in front of the large group and don't remember anything I said. In fact, I forgot to talk about Ape Cave. In the afternoon, we split into groups to do a practice rove on the Hummocks. Another experienced volunteer helped and I channeled my inner Christoph, my mentor. At times, it felt like I wasn't leading very well but we completed the loop and folks seemed happy for the practice.

 



In June, I had a few mentor shifts scheduled, my first being at Ape Cave. I was glad to only have one person to evaluate. I just did my thing to try to give the new volunteer opportunities to engage and interact with visitors. He gave me a glowing review to the volunteer coordinator. My next mentor session was the following day on the 83 road. I reproduced the route that Christoph had taken us on. We met at the MSHI headquarters in Chelatchie, then caravanned to the Trail of Two Forests. After a short stop there, we continued to the Marble Mountain sno-park. We hiked on the Pine Marten Trail until the washout, then walked the road to the June Lake trailhead. We hiked up to the lake for lunch, then back to our cars. My third mentor shift at Ape Cave didn't get any sign ups so I just treated it like any other shift. My fourth mentor shift was similar to the second one except we explored the Loowit Trail for half mile towards Ape Canyon. We got along well and they both seemed receptive to suggestions and did their best to practice with the visitors we met.

Glacier Overlook Hikes

This year, I was eligible to assist on guided hikes. We had a big training session on the NE side. I'd already spent some time near Randle, so it was great to return. I stopped at the Miner's Car and ran into another MSHI volunteer and the regional crew leader from WTA. We saw some volunteers at the Cascade Peaks Interpretive Center. While driving to Base Camp, I got really woozy. Fortunately, I was on a dirt road, going really slow. I was in shock and downed a bottle of water. WTaF? I made it to camp and tried to brush it off. I didn't want to jeopardize my chances of being on a guided trip. The next morning I did the big group hike to the Glacier Overlook.

 

 


The rest of the weekend was fine but I had to pull over somewhere on I-5 (near Castle Rock?) to rest. It turned out to be a case of vertigo, BPPV. Nothing to do except wait it out. Scary!

 

 
Before I'd been accepted as a GOH assistant, I'd signed up for one of the hikes as a "customer". I was happy to return a second time. I camped at the Wakepish Picnic Area and drove to Windy Ridge the next morning. I could have camped somewhere on the 99 Road but I thought it'd be best to stay near a pit toilet. There were a bunch of cars there and some guy with a dog next to me. It was comforting to have other people around.


At the end of August, I had my GOH assistant shift. I camped at Wakepish Picnic Area again. This time I had the place to myself, yikes! After it was dark and I was in my cocoon in the Jeep, I noticed a few cars drive through the parking lot in the wee hours. Because all my stuff was stacked in the front seats, I was a bit vulnerable. Fortunately, no one stayed for long. The weather the next morning was chilly and overcast. Dang, in the middle of August? The view into the crater was mostly obscured but our guests/participants were nonplussed. As a bonus this time, we hiked over to Loowit Falls.

 

Mt Adams (Pahto)

Hiking Steward shifts on 83 Road and Ape Cave

This year, after I did my mentor shifts, I got some quality time on the trails and at the trailheads. For my 83 Road shift, I hit the usual spots: Trail of Two Forests, the Lahar Viewpoint, Lava Canyon, June Lake, and once or twice, a hike up the Ape Canyon Trail. The only new trail that I tackled was the Loowit Trail to Chocolate Falls and back to June Lake via the Pika Trail. It was fun co-roving with Rod and Gail but I would like to prioritize arranging some more co-roving shifts in 2025. 

Trail Maintenance

Several volunteers that I know from WTA organized some trail work parties through MSHI and the USFS. The lower section of the Lava Canyon trail, north of the defunct suspension bridge, has been eroding over the years. There was also some re-benching work on the trail between the bridges. It was great to work with friends on some trails within the monument. I also did a co-rove on the Cinnamon Trail resulting in some emergency maintenance by the BCHW, and another on the Fossil Trail, both on the west side of the monument.

Building benches outside SLC

This was my second Conservation Corps shift. It was kind of a long drive for one day but I was glad to chip in. I'd hoped to meet and interact with some other MSHI volunteers but I was the only one who signed up. There was another volunteer there in an ambassador role but I didn't see them after I started the project. I worked in tandem with a USFS employee. The work was a little sloppy but I did my best to minimize the unevenness. I finished the shift at the SLC workshop, sanding the 4x4 timbers for the rest of the benches.

Boots & Bowties

For the second year, I volunteered for the annual fundraiser, Boots & Bowties, at Ilani Casino in Ridgefield, WA. Last year I helped with the silent and live auctions. This year, I was a runner between the box office and accounting booth. I was also a runner for the live auction. I didn't have a chance to talk with other volunteers much but while we were waiting for the live auction to begin, I sat on the floor next to a volunteer I knew by name.

Washington Trails Association (WTA) [↗]

Lyle-Cherry Orchard Trail

This was (*one of) my favorite work party locations. It's difficult to choose. It's the furthest east in the Gorge that I've done a trail work party, past Hood River on the WA side, of course. The location offered amazing views and it's what I imagine Ireland, Scotland, or New Zealand might look like. Or, just south-central WA. You don't see much from the trailhead parking lot, you have to climb up to the first plateau. I was fortunate to work with folks that created the Lyle part of the figure-8. Rod told me the trail actually stopped a wildfire from destroying the ancient oaks.

Augspurger Trail

Since my first trip up Dog Mountain, I'd wanted to hike this trail. I remember meeting a couple at the top that told me about combining the trails into an epic loop. Well, this work party was not the day to do it but we did make it about 2/3rds of the way to the upper junction. We were cautious about poison oak (or poison ivy, I can never remember which). This was the trip I learned about Salt Stick, the edible electrolyte pill. Better IMO than powered stuff that makes water bottles smell like watermelon or whatever, and you're left with a little sleeve of trash.
 

Cape Disappointment

The first Cape D trip was in the spring. We all stayed at Scarborough House at Fort Columbia in Chinook, WA. I shared a room with another volunteer. It was rainy but we managed okay. Even though we had a decent kitchen, we ate our dinners in Astoria, no potlucks this time. After we wrapped up for the day at North Head trail, a few of us went to check out the lighthouse, which is rarely open to the public. It was staffed by two volunteers, a husband and wife duo. Back at the Scarborough House, we explored the basement and locked attic and found a petrified bat.

The second Cape D trip was in the fall. We all stayed in the Assistant Lighthouse Keeper's Resident at North Head, Fort Canby. I shared a room with another volunteer. Two people stayed in the common area (living room and dining room). Again, we traveled to Astoria for dinners two of the three nights. On the third night, a few of us drove into Long Beach for dinner and stopped at Marsh's Free Museum which has Jake the Alligator Man.

 

 

Cispus, Covel Creek

This was my second trip to the Cispus Learning Center near Randle, WA. I stayed there in the spring with Cascade Forest Conservancy. We stayed in one of the bunkhouses, walking distance to the trails. This was my first log out. I was thankful to be included even though I wasn't a certified sawyer. I was the swamper on a small team, participating in the decision making and helping keep my team safe. On the second day, we taxied everyone up Burley Mountain and hiked down. I lost my safety glasses. One of the CLs wasn't feeling well and I volunteered to carry their chainsaw back to camp.


On our second night after most folks had gone to bed, we were enjoying the evening and realized something looked different in the sky. I got out my phone and took a photo. Holy cow! northern lights, aurora borealis! I'd wanted to see them on my Norway trip. The next day we showed our photos and folks were disappointed that we hadn't woken them up. On our third night, we were tasked to sound the alarm if the northern lights happened again. Sadly, they did not. (sad trombone).

 





On the last day of the work party, a few more folks came up from Portland / Vancouver. Unfortunately, we'd finished the work, except for some cleanup done by a small chainsaw crew. I think we were done by lunchtime. We stopped at the Huff N Puff for a strawberry shake and corn dog.

Cispus, Northfork

This was my second log out work party near the Cispus River. We had a few campsites at the North Fork Campground. Expecting rain, I set up my tent and a new rain cover that extended off the back of my Jeep. I was able to organize my gear, get dressed, change, and extend the livable space when it was pouring. For dinner, we drove into Randle to the Big Bottom Tavern for burgers and drinks. We definitely stood out from the locals.

 

 

North Fork Loop

On the first day, we made the short walk to the loop trail. There's a lot of elevation gain at the beginning but a lot of it is flat. We went in the clockwise direction, stopping often to clear debris and fix the trail as needed. We were split into groups of 3 or 4, leapfrogging along the way. We reached a viewpoint and stopped for lunch. I was the swamper and learned a lot about the OHLEC process.

 


Watchable Wildlife

On the second day, we packed up camp, enjoyed breakfast sandwiches courtesy of the crew leader, then commuted over to NF-25 to Woods Creek Watchable Wildlife loop trail. We split into teams and head out to tackle our task, leapfrogging. It's mostly a flat trail but it was good to get experience with cross cutting. You still follow all the same OHLEC best practices but it takes a bit of finesse, esp. if you're working with another sawyer. I like that the crew leader looks for opportunities for "green hats" to upskill, and it also gives crew-leaders-in-training some more experience leading a team.

 

Breakfast

Tandem crosscutting

Olympic Peninsula

For fun, I found a couple one-day WTA work parties on the Olympic Peninsula. It was an excuse for a road trip, camping, sightseeing, and getting to know folks from other regions. My first day was mostly driving up to Sequim to my campground. My neighbors were drunk. I didn't really want to set up much gear, just my tent & sleeping bag, and then got out of there to head up to Port Townsend. I wandered the old part of town for a bit then headed over to Fort Warden and poked around by the lighthouse. I stopped for dinner at the Bayview Restaurant. I thought it was going to be more bougie but it was pretty laid back. I still had some groceries to buy and stopped at a Safeway.

Upper Dungeness

I underestimated the drive to the trailhead. Good thing I didn't stop for breakfast in Sequim. The road was gravel for a bit, but then started to get rutted and narrow. I didn't see any other vehicles so I was worried I'd missed a turn even though I was following the directions from the CL to a tee. I turned a corner and found the parking lot nearly full. 

 

Debarking

Tandem crosscutting

At this work party, we gathered materials to build a crib wall since the trail got equestrian traffic. We found some small diameter cedars for the "dead men", used a Pulaski and pull knife to remove bark from these huge logs, and did a little crosscutting. The new retired crew leader gave out stickers and homemade cookies at the debriefing.

Mildred Lakes

I didn't have a campsite for my second night. The work site was west of Hamma Hamma and there wasn't anything lodging within a reasonable distance and price. I didn't need much so I drove up to the trailhead. I passed the Lena Lake Trailhead and drove to the end of the road. There was a huge bridge crossing over the Hamma Hamma River. There was a 4x4 camper there with all the windows covered. I didn't want to park next to them so drove back across the bridge and parked within view 

but far enough away. I set up my sleeping quarters in the back of the Jeep, too rocky for the tent.

 

The next morning the camper was still there along with several WTA folks. The work site wasn't less than 1/2 mile from the trailhead, a former logging staging site. The trail originated as a secret fishing trail but was getting more hikers since Lena Lake was too crowded in the peak summer season. Our goal was to widen the tread, no easy task as it was totally rocky. It took the whole day to reconfigure a 20 foot section. 

 

 

 

It was good to meet and work with new folks. I saw a guy from the previous day that earned his 500 day sticker. I thought I might run into another guy from Olympia that I've worked with at the coast and Cispus.

Monte Cristo, Monte Carlo

Even though the Williams Mine fire was still going near Mt Adams & Trout Lake, the smoke had not drifted to where we were camped at the Oklahoma Campground. We had a small but mighty crew. On the first day, we carpooled to the work site but our crew leader didn't explain the directions. We had two cars heading to the lower trailhead, a road that gets more narrow, overgrown as you go. At a certain point, we realized we were lost. We managed to turn around and head back toward the campground. We were intercepted and got directions. We drove up the overgrown forest road, clearing branches & debris. When we got to the end of the road, we set out on foot to continue. When we ran out of stuff, in the mid-afternoon we dropped our gear and hiked to the top of the mountain.

 


That night at camp, one guy dreamed about getting a burrito. It didn't take much convincing to ditch my MRE and give my order. Oliver got in his car and disappeared. We waited and waited and waited. We joked that he'd made off with our cash and gone on vacation. Turns out the place he'd wanted to go was closed so he drove all the way to Hood River and found another place. The food was awesome, just what the doctor ordered.

 


The next day, our focus was on the Monte Carlo trail. The trailhead was just across the forest from out campsite. We parked along the road and started brushing. No views today. I had a chance to sit with Janene for lunch. She is a "lunch lady" (cafeteria manager at a school). We talked about nutrition and her work as a crew leader. It's great to walk back through the sections that had been cleared and notice the improvement. We may not see the visitors that benefit from the work but it's rewarding just the same. At the debriefing, I got my fleece WTA vest for completing my 25th day of service.

Trailkeepers of Oregon (TKO) [↗]

My work with TKO has been pretty limited. I did one trail party and one Ambassador shift in 2023, both at Latourell Falls. The rest of my volunteering was spent with WTA and MSHI.

Nevertheless, I was invited to TKO's Annual Summit @ Camp Tilikum in February 2024. It was open to anyone that had volunteered the previous year. I was soon greeted by a volunteer that I know from WTA. The group was very welcoming and I was honored to participate. They treated us to a continental breakfast and lunch. The bulk of the day was spent listening to the organization's plans for the upcoming year and beyond. We also had some breakout sessions and an opportunity to chat 1-on-1 with the staff members assigned to the different regions and focus (trail work, ambassadors, etc).

In March, I did my first work party for 2024 at Troutdale/Beaver Creek. It was a continuation of work to rebuild the stairs. The group I was with included my buddy from WTA, building the boxes for the steps with 6x6 timbers and rebar. We only made 4 or 5 steps but it was good, honest work. I was tired at the end of the shift, the good kind of tired.


After working on a couple log out work parties with WTA, I started looking for an organization to get my chainsaw/sawyer certification. I found the PCT Association and the Backcountry Horsemen chapters in WA and OR but no upcoming classes. Fortunately, in October there was a three-day class through TKO that was open to anyone that had volunteered any number of hours. It was one day of classroom instruction and two days of field training. One of the evaluators was someone I know from WTA.

 

Thanks to TKO for offering the class, I earned my "A" sawyer certification. I feel a duty to repay the debt and plan to find a log out to get some trigger time and give back to the TKO. Whatever I end up doing, I'm glad to give back to my PNW community. 

Cascade Forest Conservancy (CFC) [↗]

Another organization that I donated some time and energy was the CFC. In my mind, it completes the complimentary triad of organizations that care for the forests and trails in the PNW. While I interact with people in my role with MSHI, care for the trails with WTA, I'm helping to restore damaged habitats with CFC.

Yellowjacket Creek

In April, I did my first outing with CFC. It was a two-day event on the confluence of the Cispus River and Yellowjacket Creek. Artificial log jams had been installed the previous year to slow the river and improve the salmon habitat. Our job was to plant Douglas Fir saplings on the debris piles and banks to stabilize the soil and provide shade. We stayed in these brand-new mobile homes across from the Cispus Learning Center. We had a campfire and roasted marshmallows. I was the only new person and the group was really welcoming.

Stump Creek

It wasn't until November that I was able to sign up for some more shifts, in fact, it was their last two outings of the year. We met at park south of Toutle, WA to consolidate into fewer vehicles. In fact, our worksite was about 30 miles east on a narrow forest road. It was raining and cold but we planted hundreds of Sitka spruce saplings.

Camp Creek & Crystal Creek

The following Saturday, I joined the last riparian planting party. We met at the Cowlitz Ranger Station in Randle, WA. This outing involved two stops: Camp Creek off Cispus Road, and Crystal Creek off NFD-25. We harvested hundreds of willow stakes and planted half of them along the banks of Crystal Creek. Then, we hopped in our cars and drove to Crystal Creek and planted the other half of the willow stakes. 

 

We harvested hundreds of willow stakes and planted half of them along the banks of Crystal Creek. Then, we hopped in our cars and drove to Crystal Creek and planted the other half of the willow stakes. 

Mt St Helens Summit

For the fourth year in a row, I took another run at the summit. I felt strong and had plenty of snacks and electrolytes. I also ate much better the night before. I parked where I did the first year I did the climb: it worked, I made it to the rim again!


In the morning (around 6am), I started out hiking by myself but by the first section of rocks, I started to see more climbers. I met a guy that was making his first ascent and commented on the clear skies. On the first rocky traverse, I stopped to put on some layers because the wind kicked up and some clouds had rolled in. I apologized for jinxing the weather.


While going through the boulders, I noticed that there were a dozen or so other hikers on the route. The wind had died down and the sun was back out. I could make out shapes of people on the summit.

 

As I ascended the last section, I counted off the steps in sets of twenty until I reached the rim and could see Spirit Lake and Mt Raininer. It was both exciting and a huge relief.

 

Read the full blog post: https://roadtripsandhikes.blogspot.com/2024/09/hike-mt-st-helens-summit-cougar-wa.html 

Trip to Bend in October

Lava Cast Forest

While I expected this trail was similar to the Trail of Two Forests within the Mt St Helens Volcanic Monument, I found similarities and differences. Instead of a boardwalk, this is an asphalt paved trail within Newberry Volcanic Monument. There are trees embedded in the lava and had not burned away. There were dozens of gnarled, twisted trees that had survived the lava flow but there were plenty of tree cast holes where ancient trees had once stood. The trail winds through a stand of trees, adjacent to a massive lava field. You got a real sense of scale with Newberry Caldera within view to the south.


 

Newberry Caldera

This was my second visit to the caldera and I headed right up to Paulina Peak. I was the only car up there besides the port-a-potty truck. I took the same photos that I did the previous year and hiked down the interpretive trail. I could see wildfire smoke from the south drifting into the caldera. I hadn't accounted for the fire season when I scheduled this impromptu trip to Bend. From there, I headed to the boat launch on the edge of East Lake. The smoke was really getting dense and I was losing daylight. I didn't even have time to stop at Big Obsidian Flow. I felt rushed but was glad I'd made it up there. I realized that I'd driven toward the worst of the wildfires; the air quality in La Pine was purple, meaning hazardous, go indoors.

 


Trail of Molten Lands

When I got back on Hwy 97, I was relieved to find clear air up by Sunriver. I passed Lava Butte and had to drive all the way to South Bend to make a u-turn. There was still some daylight left and I wanted to check out the cinder cone again. The road was closed but I could still take a quick spin around the Trail of the Molten Land. The bank of wildfire smoke was steadily moving north. It made the sunset golden. I got back to the car just in time for the sun to drop below the horizon.

 


Smith Rock

I'd planned to stop at Smith Rock on my way home but the area's wildfire smoke was still lingering and limiting my hiking options. The AQI near Redmond looked a lot better. After grabbing some coffee, I headed north on Hwy 97. Wow! As soon as I pulled into the parking lot, I was awestruck. In my usual fashion, I had done zero research on the trail system and just started going towards the visitor center + gift shop, both closed. Before descending into the canyon, I spied a trail climbing up the side of the rock that disappeared around the corner. I was going there! And what an epic one it was, the Misery Trail. When it was time to choose my return route on the backside of the rocky formation past Monkey Face, I sought solitude and more miles. I eventually found my way to the Burma Road trail and could see the visitor center. I ended my trek with a short out-n-back hike along the Crooked River, where there were several groups of rock climbers taking turns on their respective chalky routes. Truly epic visit.

 



No Name Lake & Bend Glacier

I was determined to make it to the trailhead this time. If something is gonna break, so be it, but I knew my rig was up to the challenge. From the Todd Creek Trailhead, it's about 5 miles on a moderately rutted dirt road. I knew the views were going to be awesome. It took about 40 mins but I found a nearly full parking lot, including some cars that had much lower clearance than I did. I met a guy in the parking lot that was meeting a friend who was biking from Broken Top Brewery in Bend: they were meeting at Broken Top summit.


Broken Top Mountain
I still wasn't sure about the route to No Name Lake but I asked some hikers that I encountered. They assured me that it wasn't difficult to reach. As far as elevation gain, it was moderate, about 1400 feet over about 3 miles. This hike is in the top 5 favorites of all time. Being in the shadow of Broken Top was awe-inspiring. I quickly saw a trail going along the shore and up to a rim overlooking the lake. There was a couple with two kayaks and a dog. I watched them from afar paddle to the glacier and hike up and snowboard a 100 foot section.
 
No Name Lake

The views of Three Sisters, Mt Washington, Three Finger Jack, and more from that upper rim was just incredible. I knew I still had to drive back to Portland so I didn't stay as long as I would have liked. I met some backpackers that were going on a multi-day hike past Broken Hand and The Tam McArthur Rim. Next time!
Three Sisters

Other new trails

These are all hikes on trails that I hadn’t been to before. They are more or less arranged in chronological order. I tend to return to favorite trails for conditioning hikes but I want to get better at exploring new places. 

Sahalie Falls

While I don't need any snowshoeing instruction, I signed up for a guided snowshoe tour at Mt Hood Meadows. I'd hoped, at least, to meet some other snowshoers. Well, I was the only person to show up that morning. It was just the guide and me. The route was not difficult at all but it was great to see the Nordic Center and different grooming methods. We walked up to Sahalie Falls for a photo-op, then over the HRM chairlift. We met another group of novice snowshoers and my guide stopped to help someone with their bindings.
 

Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail

After the WTA work party at Lyle Cherry Orchard, I booked a night in Hood River. I'd walked part of the trail from the Mosier side. I popped into the visitor center and had a long conversation with the volunteer ranger. It was rough on the feet and legs since it's paved but I made it all the way to the other side, through the tunnels. There were lots of epic views of the river and Columbia Gorge, and the weather was perfect.

 

 

 

Falls Creek Falls

This waterfall has come across my Instagram feed, or maybe it was the Portland Hikers FB group. I just wanted to do something different instead of hiking Hamilton or another trail that usually I frequent. I'd already been up Bunker Hill and this trail was only a bit further north of Carson. Honestly, I was surprised to see so many cars driving out and in the huge parking lot when I finally made it. The hike is not difficult by any stretch and more crowded than is my preference. It certainly is beautiful but not one that I'll go again, unless it's to show someone else. It feels similar to Tamawanas Falls: out-n-back, crowded but picturesque.

 

 

Pika Trail (via June Lake)

After a couple of MSHI shifts which weren't very physically challenging, I wanted to get some miles and elevation gain. I had my eye on doing some reconnaissance of the Loowit Loop. I met another MSHI volunteer walking the road past the washout, though he declined my offer of a ride. We met in the June Lake Parking lot and hiked up to the lake together. Alex went back to the trailhead and continued on my way. 
I wanted to see Chocolate Falls and part of the winter climbing route. The terrain was familiar until I reached the Worm Flows, a large boulder field. I followed the lodge poles and tried to keep pace with the backpackers I met on-trail. Unfortunately, the falls were dry, just some dark soil. On the way back, instead of continuing down to Marble Mountain, I followed the map to the Pika Trail. Wow. More big boulders to climb through. I could see my destination, June Lake, and kept going methodically and carefully. Probably not a trail I would go out of my way to hike this again but I know I can make it, if necessary.

Toutle & Cinnamon Loop

The hike started out uneventful. We even encountered some trail runners along the way on the Toutle Trail. After a half-mile walk up a road to the Cinnamon Trail, we stopped to rest and hydrate. Rod pointed out evidence of previous trail work through the burn area. About 3/4ths of the way, we encountered a nearly impossible situation. The trail was buried under hundreds of burnt logs, saplings, and bushes. We were too far to turn back so we pushed forward, climbing over, under, and around the debris. I blazed ahead to use my handsaw to make things a bit easier for Rod. We were so relieved to get past it all and find the trail again.

Tamanawas Falls

I don't remember what I was doing out by Mt Hood but I found myself heading towards Hood River on Hwy 35. I wanted to hike but I could not settle on anything. I passed Tamanawas Falls but the lot was full of cars. I kept going and saw some open spots at Polallie Trailhead. I still didn't know where to go but found a trail across the road. I thought I'd go for a while and see what I could find. I knew there was a trail to Cooper Spur somewhere. Happily, I found the trail to Tamanawas Falls. It was crowded as expected but I snuck in and grabbed some photos. I found the Elk Meadows Trail back to my car.

Cloud Cap Inn

After leaving Polallie Trailhead, I passed by the Cooper Spur turnoff but decided to take it so I found a place to do a u-turn. I was just going to take the backroads to Hood River but saw the sign for the Cloud Cap Inn. Fuck ya! The road is long but not terrible, at least for a lifted Jeep. One or two cars passed me on the way. As I ascended, Mt Hood looked bigger and bigger. After a quick visit to the Tilly Jane Campground, I drove over to the Cloud Cap Inn. It's amazing to think the place had been there for over a century and is still used as a base camp for mountain rescues by the Crag Rats.

Fossil Trail

This was another roving hike with Rod and Gail. It became a trail work scouting trip but we did encounter at least one hiker. We met at the Kalama Horse Camp and carpooled to the Blue Lake Trailhead. We hiked on the Fossil Trail all the way back to the Kalama Horse Camp. It wasn't very difficult in this direction but would be a good hike going the other way. I still needed a ride back to my car at Blue Lake but we went to scout the forest road for an upcoming work party. They drove me back to my car and we parted ways. It was good to hike with friends from MSHI/WTA for a change.

Kalama Falls

After I left Rod & Gail, I wanted to check Kalama Falls off my list. Usually when I pass by the entry point, there are several cars but not today. For some reason, I was feeling vulnerable, like animals could see me but I couldn't see them. While it is an easy walk on a gravel road, it's longer than I expected. I almost turned back from nerves but I kept going after seeing that I was close to the turn off. I found the falls and spent some time exploring but I wished there were some other people around. Go away bears!

 

Packwood Lake

After my Glacier Overlook Hike shift, I decided to stay in the area and do some hiking. I booked a room in Packwood and got food from the pizza place. The next morning, I looked on AllTrails and found the Packwood Lake Trail. Turns out this is one of the entry points for BCRTs to the Goat Rocks Wilderness. I only went as far as the lake. Amazing! There were a dozen or so campsites with fire pits. I learned from the on-site ranger that these were "grandfathered" in from previous decades. We talked about LNT and the stuff he finds around the campground.

What's Next

• More volunteering with MSHI, WTA, TKO

Climb Mt Adams, Mt St Helens, another mountain TBD

Return to north side of Mt Hood (Tilly Jane, Cooper Spur, Barrett Spur)

More road trips; visit other volcanic areas: Craters of the Moon, Parkdale Lava Flow, 

return to Lassen Volcanic National Park, Lava Beds National Monument

More snowshoeing in Oregon, Washington

Explore more Gorge hikes: Nesmith Point, Mount Defiance, Herman Creek, 

Tunnel Falls, Table Mountain

Overall Stats for the Year

Number of Hikes: 62

Total Distance: 317.7 miles (511.3 km)

Total Elevation Gain: 75,841 feet (23,116 m)

Average Distance per Hike: 5.12 miles (8.24 km)

Average Elevation Gain per Hike: 1,223 feet (372.8 m)

Longest Hike: 10.77 miles (Ape Canyon, 8/10/2024)

Highest Elevation in a Hike: 8,260 feet (Mt St Helens, 9/16/2024)

Most Elevation in a Hike: 4,531 feet (Mt St Helens, 9/16/2024)


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