Hike: God's Thumb via The Knoll, Lincoln City, OR

Getting There

One thing is for sure, don't follow the Google directions!

"This is not a hiking trail. I made the mistake of following the directions. It led me to a private residence. The residence's owner is not a kind man. He stood and blocked my vehicle from exiting his property while scolding me about Google." 

Geezus christ! I used AllTrails to find the "correct" trailhead. In fact there are two. The preferred option is the The Knoll Open Space Trailhead, a cul-de-sac on NE Devils Lake Blvd. There were a bunch of cars parallel parked but I kept going the end of the road and found an open spot, IN THE SHADE, near the trailhead.

From Hwy 101, take NW Logan Road north towards Roads End. When the road begins to veer left, go straight onto NE Port Lane which curves 90 deg R. Continue on NE Voyage Ave to the junction with NE Devils Lake Blvd. Go left to the cul-de-sac. 

The Hike

Length: 4.98 mi
Elev. gain: 1,109 ft
Moving time: 2:00:53
Avg pace: 24:15
Calories: 1,065
Total time: 2:11:15 

I thought about doing this hike the day before, Sunday, because I'd planned to drive north to hike Cape Lookout Trail, south of Tillamook, on Monday. However, it just did some exploring along the coast on both ends of Lincoln City. It was surprised by the humidity despite the temperatures being moderate (70s?). By early afternoon, all I wanted was a shower! I booked a hotel while eating breakfast but had 4-5 hours before check-in.

On my morning walk along the beach north of Roads End, I could see tiny dots (people) on the Thumb. I knew it wasn't a big hike but offered gorgeous views. 

I got a later start on Monday morning. I returned to the same restaurant for the same breakfast (ham & cheese omelette, coffee). I'd gone for a walk in the morning for coffee only to find drive-thru-only places. I even popped my head into a Pig 'N Pancake but the wait was 20+ mins. Fuck that!

On my way, I had to make a few stops: the auto parts store for a seat cover (I knew I was gonna be sweaty after the hike), the grocery store (electrolytes, lunch, dude wipes), a visit to the public loo at Roads End.

By noon, I was ready to go and made my way to the trailhead.

While I was getting ready, I noticed a couple emerging from the trees to the left of the trailhead. I saw it was a more direct route to the Knoll and Thumb but also included some road walking. I saw the counterclockwise route was longer but maybe better.

Four casual hikers were milling around the trailhead signs with their clean tennis shoes and small water bottles. I noted my gear (big day pack with 10 essentials, lots of water and snacks.) I thought about them as I ascended some steep grades.

When I reached the junction for the Knoll and Thumbs, marked by a user on the bottom of a sign, I found the route to the Thumb. If it's merely a "social trail" it's well established from years (decades?) of use, very easy to follow, albeit overgrown in some spots.

I passed several groups of hikers and continue towards my first destination. You can't see God's Thumb until you are almost on top of it at the Lookout, and even then, you have to start going down a steep, rutted trail. 

I know there are some appeals asking hikers to stop at the lookout and not add to the erosion. I chose to go ahead anyway. My justification is weak but I felt like I wasn't adding the erosion (maybe when it's wet and slippery). 

I followed down the hill behind a group of three but took a slightly different route, thus passing them. I zoomed up to the top of the Thumb. The views were incredible. I only stayed up there for a few minutes, as the group of three was making their way up.

I hiked back to the junction and continued on towards the Knoll. More incredible views but less impressive than the Thumb. Maybe would have been slightly better to start with the Knoll and finish with the Thumb. Maybe not.

I saw on the map that there was trail going down the stop hill off the end of the Knoll which reconnected with the main trail. Well, it's there but only a boot-width and a bit hard to follow when you get into the trees.

At only point, I lost the trail. Fortunately, I heard some voices from hikers on the main trail and eventually saw them. I found the trail and rejoined.

I got to a gate and continued back to the trailhead on a gravel road, NE Sal la Sea Drive. I'm glad I took the route I did and didn't start the hike on the road. 2/100ths of a mile shy of 5 miles and just over 1000 ft of elevation gain. So glad I did it.

Unfortunately, I skipped my hike to Cape Lookout. Another time!

Some fun with photo editing: 

Hike: McNeil Point, Mt Hood, Zigzag, OR

Getting There

I took Hwy 26 from Portland to Zig Zag and turn left onto E Lolo Pass Rd. After 4.2 miles, turn right onto Muddy Fork Rd. After 0.7 miles it becomes 1828. Continue for another 5.6 miles until the paved road changes to dirt & gravel, veer right. The Top Spur trailhead 1.5 miles from the last junction.

The parking area was completely full and dozens of cars parked along the shoulder. I only encountered a handful of hikers on the trail leading me to believe most of the cars belonged to overnight backpackers. I crossed paths with many loopers on my way back to the trailhead. But I also noticed that virtually all the cars that were parked on the shoulder had left. 

The Hike

Length: 8.32 mi
Elev. gain: 2,539 ft
Moving time: 4:04:02
Avg pace: 29:19
Calories: 2,150
Total time: 4:20:36 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This was my first hike in almost a month that wasn't a trail work party. Unforunately, I got a late start and didn't get to the trailhead until about 2pm. I knew I had plenty of daylight, I still didn't linger for very long at any one spot to enjoy the surroundings and scenery. When I'd decided to hike this trail, I wanted to hike up to Ho Rock (Cathedral Ridge) but I didn't get there until about 5pm.

Nevertheless, the views on this route are incredible. The last time I was here in late Aug 2023, it was raining and Mt Hood was obscured by clouds. The first time I did this hike in July 2022, I'd gone all the way up to Ho Rock.

I crossed paths with so many backpackers, esp. when I was on my way back to the trailhead. I wasn't feeling great but kept going anyway. When I got to the lakes with the White Pasqueflowers, I met a couple that asked me about my MSHI patch. We chatted for 10-15 mins before parting ways. I thought maybe I'd go as far as the McNeil/Timberline junction then turn back but reaching the shelter was still a goal. I decided it was faster to continue on the loop than double-back. It was the right choice.

The backside of the route is incredible. Great views of the nearby Cascade Mountains (St Helens, Rainier, Adams) and northwestern flank of Mt Hood. 

From the bench near the shelter, the views were incredible. I could see the lakes I passed through earlier. Plus, more views of the Cascades. 

   

I already knew I was taking the "shortcut" back to the Timberline Trail. This was going to be my third time going down the "elevator" shaft. It was familiar but also lots of room for error. I made sure to be take each step carefully. 

Like last time (2023), I met a solo hiker coming up. I thought that they were ascending pretty late and also questioned my need to get back before it got dark. I probably could have stayed up there for awhile and still had plenty of daylight. Plus, it's a well marked trail, there were dozens of backpackers, and I had a flashlight. I may go back again soon and do the extra hike to Ho Rock. (Or, hike from Vista Ridge to Barrett Spur).

This photo was taken at about 5:30pm. See how high the sun in the sky. Plenty of time to linger.

Hike: Ape Cave Return Path and Lower Passage, Cougar, WA

Getting There

It's 28 miles from Woodland to the Cougar. There are a couple of gas stations here. Continue east on SR-503 which becomes Rd 90 for 9.5 miles to Ape Cave. Looks for the sign to Ape Caves, June Lake, Climber's Bivouac, Ape Canyon & Lava Canyon which is Rd 83. It's 0.3 miles to Trail of Two Forests and 0.7 miles to Ape Cave.

However, there was road construction on Rd 83 so the only way to get there, and other places north like Marble Mountain, June Lake, Ape and Lava Canyon was to get Road 81 past Merrill Lake and Kalama Horse Camp. This deterred a lot of would-be visitors but there were still folks that persevered and made it.

I was here for an MSHI mentor shift but no one had signed up. Normally I would just spend the day at the cave entrance, but I kinda wanted to take a break and explore the cave when fewer people were coming up. 

The Hike

Distance: 3.92 miles
Elevation Gain: 495 feet
Highest Elevation: 2,443 feet

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I started the day in the parking lot, collecting trash and cleaning up the bathrooms a bit. The Ape Headquarters Store was closed (Mon, Tue). I was the only "official" presence up there. 

I wandered up the info kiosk by the entrance and set up shop. I hung my array of visual aids and greeted the slow but steady trickle of novice cave explorers. Several groups had young kids and a few opted for the upper, more challenging, passage. 

One couple I met had parked near the FR-90/83 junction and hopped on their bikes to get to the site. Another couple parked below the road construction project and walked the road to get here.

After an hour or so, I realized I didn't have my radio, it was still in the car. I walked back down to the parking lot and retrieved it, and my lunch. I heard some noise coming from behind the still-closed store. I peaked around the corner and found Camille, a full-time USFS staff member. I'd never met her personally but knew her name. She was our POC for the trailwork on the S/SW side of the monument. She asked if it was I that cleaned the bathrooms. I said "yes" and tried to downplay it. She was so appreciative and repeated her "thanks" a few times. 

A pair of visitors found us and began asking questions about the site. I told them I'd be glad to escort them to the cave entrance and said goodbye to Camille. When we got there, I get them the run-down and they made their way to the lower passage. 

After noon, I figured I'd hike up to the upper cave's exit on the surface trail, to pick up trash, trim a few branches, and just get away from the stationary spot where I normally hang. Sometimes, the mosquitos and other insects can get annoying but there were few to none on this day. I was ready with a bug repellent gizmo I got from Sportsman's Warehouse. I encountered many visitors whom I'd seen earlier.

I returned to the kiosk but figured I do some roving in the lower cave. I took the opportunity to chat with a few folks down there, making sure to identify myself as an MSHI Volunteer. The last time I was in the lower cave was for the youth trip back in mid-Feb. We'd only gone as far as the "Meatball". I wanted to go to the "end", where the passage tapers down to a dead end. It was further past the "Meatball" than I remembered. 

When I got back, it was about time to leave. I packed up my visual aids and headed for the car.

I wanted to take a look at the washout between Marble Mountain and June Lake, as well as the road construction near the cave. I was a bit surprised to see the blockade had been removed and a car passed. I headed up to Marble Mountain first. I was happy to see all but one whoop-de-whoop was gone, back to pavement.

I did a u-turn and headed out. I was glad I didn't have to take the "long" way via Rd 81. The construction project was not done, still asphalt to be applied but it was easily passable, a huge improvement from the gnarly pothole that have been there for years. 

It was a great first shift of the season.

 

Hike: Hamilton Mountain + Hardy Creek, N Bonneville, WA

Getting There

Just after Doetsch Ranch you'll see the Ranger Station on the north side of the road just before the Beacon Rock parking lot, then another road across from the bathrooms. The road winds up the hill for a bit.

It was early afternoon and the weather was slightly overcast but I expected some nice views from up above. By the time, I got to the Saddle, it was really sunny. Fortunately, there were cooler temps in the trees and a nice breeze.

The Hike

Length: 9.56 mi
Elev. gain: 2,736 ft
Moving time: 3:52:49
Avg pace: 24:21
Calories: 2,051
Total time: 4:57:56 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was just reflecting on the fact that I haven't really been doing much hiking this year. I'm almost at the half-way point of the year and just have reached 25% of my hiking goals. I've been doing so many trail work parties with WTA, TKO, MSHI and attended the training in North Bend. It's also the beginning of the MSHI volunteer season so we had some training.

Well, I took the opportunity with the nice weather to try out my new boots and backpack.

Hamilton was my trail of choice.

The heat was getting to me a little, feeling slightly lethargic. It took me nearly 2.5 hrs to reach the top. I took a lot breaks for electrolytes and water. Along the way, I also took photos and GPS coordinates for all the downed trees I found over the trail.

I stopped at The Saddle to eat my sandwich and rehydrate. I also used my empty bottle to mix up a batch of electrolytes with the powder I got at Next Adventure.

I had originally thought about hiking up to the Bridge Trail but realized it was getting later in the day, though it was still a few hours before sundown. I did take Don's Cutoff to Upper Hardy Creek.

There was a hiker at the creek crossing where the Lower Hardy Creek Trail starts. I waved hello but zoomed by.

After brief stop at the Rodney Falls, I found the bottom section of the trail a bit warmer. The sun was shining and still quite high in the sky. I didn't think I wanted to wait until sundown but figured I'd do my obligatory side quest to Little Beacon.

I saw a pair of turkey vultures perched on a branch about eye level. They knew I was there, turning to look when I made noises. I hiked up to the lookout. While sitting there, I noticed the turkey vultures gliding in the wind between me and Beacon Rock. One of them came really close (~10 yards/meters). So cool.

Great day!