Summary of my week of hikes, July 2021
Wow, what an adventure! I left Portland on Sunday afternoon. One night near MSH, two nights near Mt Rainier, two nights in Snoqualmie Pass, and one more night near Mt Rainier.
Wow, what an adventure! I left Portland on Sunday afternoon. One night near MSH, two nights near Mt Rainier, two nights in Snoqualmie Pass, and one more night near Mt Rainier.
https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=13lY7QLGLPGvweV7K2vjD9N3R3A9GMbbN&usp=sharing
https://maps.roadtrippers.com/?lng=-122.83943523240896&lat=46.6916834137775&z=7.18495178484434&a2=t!34112337
Late start, around 11am, drive I-5 N to Hwy 12 E.
Stopped in Morton for some groceries
Arrived at Iron Creek campground around 3pm
Set up tent and rearranged gear, edible stuff
Walked around the camp loop for a while, ended up going to the day camp. I just walked back to the campground on the road (NF-25).
Woke up earlier but finally got out of the tent around 7am. Spent the next hour or so breaking down the tent and packing everything but the coffee making stuff.
When I reached the road I really didn't know what I was going to do. I considered my options around Packwood and Mt Rainier. I reviewed my plans for the following day and the trails around Reflection Lake and the Paradise Lodge. I also thought about doing a run up to High Rock Lookout. In the end, I'd planned my trip so I could be close to the north side of MSH. I wanted to complete the loop I'd started last weekend, and continue scouting the Ape Canyon-Smith Creek-Lava Canyon Loop.
I'm really happy with my choice to stick with the plan. I turned left on NF-25 and headed south. I remember driving this road after a long trek from Concrete. It was my goal the entire trip to avoid the interstate*. (*besides the part between home and Woodland).
As expected there was almost no traffic being that it was Monday morning. Once I turned onto NF-99 to Windy Ridge, I remember seeing a couple taking photos when the first big panoramas came into view from the road. I really want to explore the Mount Margaret Backcountry! Craggy peaks, surreal landscape of blast zone, a slowly returning ecosystem.
The views just got better and better. I remember visiting Windy Ridge last year or maybe it was in 2019, I don't remember. Just incredible to see across Spirit Lake toward Johnston Ridge, Harry's Ridge & Coldwater Peak where I was just hiking 11 days before. I want to see it all, even if it's, by necessity, in stages.
I parked near the trailhead and that couple I saw early pulled up to; it sounded like they were going for a picnic.
I geared up and set out on the Spirit Lake-Iron Creek Road (Truman Trail).
See ____ for the hike details.
I was stoked on a great hike and cheerfully changed out of my hiking boots. I was glad to have started my first full day of this trip with this particular hike. I could continue north to my next stop without reservation.
Since Norway Pass was my second option, I wanted to at least see the trailhead and get a peak at the terrain. I hesitated and passed the turn but went back around and made the turn. Why take the same road back to Randle that I came out there on. (I'd done this road a few years ago so I knew it linked back to the main road.)
This area that NF-26 takes you through is amazing in it's own right. Deep valleys, lush forest, and steep craggy peaks and ridges, outside of the blast zone. This road is the same distance as the main one, 26mi, but there are a lot of potholes and such, so it slow going. No matter, I'm there for the scenery. I would highly recommend this route if you have the time. In fact, I didn't realize where I was on the route but a guy stopped me and asked it it went to Windy Ridge. I said "yeah, more or less, it's definitely the more 'scenic' route to other road."
I emerged from the forest road and to the openness near Randle. I hopped on Hwy 12 and head to Packwood. The Mountain View Lodge just outside of town. I stayed there last summer but for just one night. (I'm recreating part of that trip but taking more time in each. Plus, there are fires and road closures up in the Methow area/North Cascades Scenic Byway.)
Side note: I didn't plan to go into town but I had sudden hankering for pizza. The place I went last time was open for another hour. On the way back into town, a huge herd of Elk or deer were grazing across from the gas station. (The pizza joint was a bust, 30-40 min wait for orders). On the way back, 1/2 the herd had crossed the road, so I carefully passed through.
Day 3 - Tuesday, July 20, 2021???
Day 4 - Wednesday, July 21, 2021![]() |
| AllTrails: Overhead view |
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| AllTrails: 3D view (looking north) |
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| AllTrails: 3D view (looking south) |
Take I-5 from Portland to Woodland. It's 23mi from Kenton to the exit 21.
There are a few gas stations to fill up here.
It's 46.2 miles to the Ape Canyon trailhead and it takes about 1.1 hrs (if you're going the speed limit ;). From WA-503 (out of Woodland) take this passed Merwin, Yale Lakes to the turn off for the following: Ape Caves, June Lake, Climber's Bivouac, Ape & Lava Canyons.
It's 11.2mi (25min) to the trailhead. The clear cut areas was really sad to see. :(
The small parking lot was full and there were many cars parked along the road. I drove the first place I could pull off the road but it passed a spot so I did a u-turn. Just as I got back to the trailhead a truck was pulling out. I grabbed that spot. I put my window shade up, geared up and set out.
Last time I did this hike was Nov 1st, 2020. I'd tried to go to the Climber's Bivouac and do the Ptarmigan Trail to the MSH Rim. It was the first day that no permit was required. Anyway, I barely made it to Pumice Butte and had troubles with my knees (IT band was tight).
The trail stays in the old forest for the first 4.5 miles. I passed though sections where I was getting eaten alive by flies, mosquitos, etc. I stopped to put on bug spray and ended up getting some in my mouth (yuck). It helped a bit but the best option was to keep moving, quickly!
I had a couple mountain bikers pass me and a handful of hikers on their descent.
When I got to Pumice Butte was felt really good. It was nice to emerge from the darkness of the canopy, see some rugged terrain, and get back to the spot where I turned around last Nov.
Several people were camping at the Butte. I temporarily lost the trail and walked into someone camp. She looked at me but didn't say anything. I just blurted "sorry, wrong turn". Because of the Trail Run, there were little colored ribbons marking the route.
There was guy hiking ahead of me. Somewhere on the Plains of Abraham he stopped to take a photo or drink some water and I passed him.
From there, I was in unknown territory. I was flat and easy. I'd seen a sign for the Loowit Trail so I figured I go there, then decide.
A runner came by and asked if I had any extra water. I had been sipping my supply so I had plenty: 32oz and another full 16oz bottle. I gave him about 2/3rd of that (until his little bottle was full). I thought well, that determines the rest of my day (or so I thought).
When I got to the Loowit Trail junction, I set a new goal: Hike to the foot of the mountain. (The trail sign said 4 miles to Windy Ridge and that was a bit further than I wanted to go.)
About 2/3rd of the way I crossed a fast moving creek/stream. Woohoo!! fresh water. I could see some snow about 100 yds away. I pulled out my empty bottles and filled up. I knew was good water, safe to drink w/o purifying). It tasted so good.
When I got to the base of the mountain, I saw some hikers climbing down a steep path. Holy cow! Until I saw them, I was expecting to head back from here. I thought "I wonder what the top of this pass looks like??").
The 2nd group was a family of four, two parents and two younger girls (7-8 y.o.). Well, if they could do it, so could I.
The view from Windy Pass was amazing. I could see Harry's Ridge, Mt Margaret, Coldwater Peak, and even the north tip of Spirit Lake.
After consulting the map, I saw there was a shorter loop that would link back to the place where I detoured onto the Loowit Trail without going all the way to Windy Ridge.
I couple passed me on the trail while I was enjoying the view and trying to decide what to do. I said "fuck it" and started the trek down.
They'd stopped for lunch and I kept going. In less than 10min I got cold feet. I wasn't up for this extra loop. I turned around while I was still close to Windy Pass and familiar terrain.
The ascent back up the steep trail wasn't bad at all, thanks to my recent training and exercise.
I made it through the pass and back on to the Plains. I filled my bottles up again at the creek. What a great thing. Access to water has been a consideration when I've been researching the Ape Canyon - Smith Creek - Lava Canyon loop.
When the finally snow melts, that amazing creek will dry up so maybe that loop is best done in early summer.
I walked back to Pumice Butte and had two more runners pass by.
Just before my descent through the old forest, I stopped in the shade and enjoyed the view for 15-20mins.
The bugs weren't as bad on the way down but the 4.5 trip felt long. I was glad to get to the part of the trail that had the views of Ape Canyon.
When I got to the trailhead, most of the cars were gone from there and along the road.
It's always such a relief to take off my hiking boots at the end of a vigorous hike.
This
is my longest hike to date. However, I only had 20 mins of peak time
(Fitbit). On the Coldwater Peak trek, I had around 240 mins of peak
time. Much more exercise, calorie burn.
| View of MSH from the old forest (right) |
| Old tree stump |
| Ape Canyon (gash in the forest below) |
| Approaching Pumice Butte |
| Looking east from Pumice Butte |
| the beautiful Mount Saint Helens |
| Mt Adams |
| Selfie from the Plains of Abraham (Windy Pass in bg) |
| Panorama from Plains of Abraham |
| Plains of Abraham from Windy Pass |
| Coldwater Peak, Harry's Ridge, Mt Margaret Backcountry |
| Another view of Windy Pass and MSH |
| Another view of Spirit Lake, Coldwater Peak, Mt Margaret |
| Wildflowers on Plains of Abraham (Sky Pilots) |
| Plains of Abraham and Pumice Butte in bg |
| Another angle of wildflowers (sky pilot) near Windy Pass |
| Lupines |
| Looking up the trail |
| MSH <3 |