Hike: Mt St Helens Summit, Cougar, WA

Getting There

From Portland: Take I-5 N for 28 miles to Woodland. Take Exit 21 for WA-503 E to Cougar. Follow Lewis River Road (WA-503) for 30 miles. Continue east for another 3.4 miles past Cougar on Road 90 and take NF-83 for Ape Cave/Climber's Bivouac. Take this road for 3 mile then turn left on FS-81 for 0.4 miles. Turn right onto Road 830 (dirt/gravel) and take that to Climber's Bivouac (2.2 miles).

I was not in the best mood when I left Portland. I'd woken up early for my bi-monthly counseling session then gone back to bed. I didn't wake up until about noon. Feeling stressed by the whole thing. Why did I put this pressure on myself? Deep inside I knew I had to try, heck just a night of camping was better than staying home.

I was going to stop at Mali Thai Cafe to get some Chicken Pad Thai but made a decision to skip it this time. I'd gotten an Asian noodle salad from New Seasons. I wanted to pasta-like food to "carb load". I stopped for gas in Woodland and continued to trailhead.

In Cougar, I stopped at the rest stop for a bio-break, then popped over to the Lakeside Country Store to get some money for camping. I got a Chicken Bake, a couple bottles of water, and 3 snack bars (dark chocolate w/ cashews & cherries). The total was like $17.50.. crap. I still needed a $5 bill. I told the cashier that I needed to buy more stuff but she said she could break my $20 bill. I told her I appreciated it and thanked her as I left the store.

Next stop: Climber's Bivouac!

My "usual" spots were already taken as I drove the small loop. I ended up back near the trailhead, across from the loo.

I made my bed in the back of the Jeep and got my book out to read. I overheard several hikers who had seemingly chaperoned another hiker back to camp. They'd split up from their group and had gotten lost in the twilight, and lost their phone. Just 5 or 10 minutes later the rest of their group made it back. They were relieved to find their friend. One person apologized for bailing on the lone friend. Not great that they split up but also the friend shouldn't have waited for their group to summit and return down the route to reunite. I thought about introducing myself as an MSHI volunteer and offer to post a note on the FB page about the missing phone. I decided it was none of my business. They were going to post a note to the sign-in board.

When it got cooler, I closed up the back and crawled into my cocoon, hoping I could get some sleep. My mattress pad had already deflated a bit. Not sure why. I blew more air in it and tried to get comfortable. (I really need to get a bigger air mattress for the Jeep.)

I didn't sleep that well but good enough. I woke several times during the night. Around 5-6am, I noticed some cars arriving. I noticed a car parked right behind me even though there were plenty of open spot across the way; it annoyed me a bit. (This happened at WCF: I was the first car in the lot with 100 spots and the next car to arrive parked right next to me!)

I was feeling reluctant to get up but I had to use the loo. From inside the car, it looked cold but in reality it wasn't bad at all, maybe 60 deg F. I took care of business and started to get ready. I packed my gear, made a sandwich, ate some pasta salad and drank 1/2 a Guayakí tea. Before putting on my pack, I wandered over to the trailhead and filled out an entry in the climbing logbook.

I could see a golden light hitting the tops of the trees. It was time to go! I hit the trail at about 7:15 am. 

The Hike

Distance: 8.15 miles
Elevation Gain: 4540 feet
Started: 7:00 am
Ended: 3:00 pm
Duration: 8 hours 
    • 4h 15m ascent
    • 30m on the rim
    • 3h 15m descent 

 

 

The Forest 

This first picture was taken at around 7:30 am, about 30min into my hike. It didn't seem to take long at all to reach this point. I was feeling okay but still a bit unsure if I was ready to complete the hike all the way to the top. I was already giving myself permission to only part of the way. However, I noted that I had already passed a couple of groups of hikers that had started before me. 

I tried to make a point of enjoying the journey and not solely focusing on the goal.

The Boulders

I made quick work of the first set of boulders and started heading up the ridgeline. A couple passed me and disappeared in front of me. I told myself I didn't need to match anyone's pace, I was only my own time, and I had plenty.

In reviewing my photos, I didn't take that many pics on the route, just trying to do my best through the obstacles. To my (relative) surprise, I wasn't as winded as I'd been on the Herman Creek hike. 

I tried to keep my focus on the next lodge pole and picking good intervals to rest, hydrate, and have a snack to keep my energy up. 

The Vertical Beach

This is the last section of the hike and I was glad to be here. No more climbing up and over boulders. Just the loose pumice sand. A faint trail zigzagged up the mountain towards the rim. I could see people on the route and along the top. I could even make out colors, of clothing, of backpacks.

I was in the good spirits. I briefly recalled where I'd turned back in 2022 but knew I was gonna make it this time (again, for the 3rd time). Some hikers that were faster than me cruised by but it didn't bother me in the least. I was going as fast as I could, as I needed to. I remembered myself that everyone that I could see in the distance had been where I was now.

My legs felt good, my oxygen was good, my attitude was good. The only thing that was a bit challenging was the wind. By this time in the hike, I'd donned my goggles. In fact, much lower down, I thought the grit that was getting into my eye was going to be a bigger issue.

Somewhere along the way I started counting my paces: sets of 20 steps and a short break. After 3 sets, I would drink some water. I was out of liquid electrolytes but still had chewables in my pocket. 

The people ahead of me and on the rim were getting bigger. I estimated I had 20 more sets of 20 to go. After 10 sets, I took another rest and water break, no more than 30 or 40 secs. I mumbled to myself, "I'm gonna make it, I'm gonna make it!".

This time, I didn't stop. I powered through 5 sets of 20.

The Summit

In the last set, I counted to myself. "17-18-19-20"... viola! I was peering out over the crater, Spirit Lake, and Mt Rainier in the distance. Fach ya! "You did it, Larry" I reminded myself. I could barely see Coldwater Peak but everything west of there was hidden behind a huge wall of dust. The wind I'd been experiencing on the climb had been coming from the east. It was difficult to determine was direction the wind was blowing at the opening of the crater to stir up so much ash/pumice. The Glacier Overlook was hard to find but I could just make it out below. 

I thought briefly about traversing to the "true summit" as I had done that first year in 2021 but the wind was blowing too hard. It didn't feel safe even though I could see two climbers making there way back to where I was. I'd told myself I'd revisit the "true summit" this year but you have to trust your instinct. Another climber that I'd chatted with on the way echoed my concern.  

I only stayed on the summit for about 30 mins. I wasn't even hungry for my sandwich. I do regret not lingering for longer. I mean, I did go all that way. Way down below and in the days leading up to this hike I'd contemplated that I should enjoy this hike to the fullest as there were no guarantees I'd be able to make the journey again, possibly due to health reasons. However, standing the edge, I assured myself, I'll go to the "true summit" next time. I was sure there would be a "next time". 

The Descent

Again, I didn't take many photos on the way down. I do remember seeing a few people from one of the groups I'd seen on the trail below the treeline, I'd take a few group photos and one person had asked about my InReach.

Additionally, on the vertical beach, I passed a guy hiking up that was a fellow MSHI volunteer, a Climbing Steward, on a personal climb. I'd spotted the circular patch on his pack and introduced myself. Sadly, as I'm bad with names with sufficient repetition, I don't remember who it was.

This time, I opted to stay closer to the marked trail instead of take my "express" route on the other side of the ravine. I was getting tired but still had a lot of rocks to get over, through.

Finally, I reached the turn in the trail and final descent to the wooded part of the hike. I was so excited to reach dirt again. Under my breath I repeated, "I'm almost there, I'm almost there." I continued down cautiously but determined. I didn't want to slip this close to the forest, non-technical part of my descent.

I made it! I high-fived the "Permit Require above this elevation" sign.

Back Through The Forest

The last section of the journey is easier but no cake walk. My legs were aching and I had to step down over numerous roots that didn't seem so back in the other direction, up. It was hard on the knees and I used my hiking poles as best I could to cushion the deep steps down.

This part of the hike seemed to go forever even though it was the same 2 miles that seemed to be over quickly in the morning as I was getting started. Funny how perception changes, the ol' Summit Fever.

I was longing to reach the end. I made it to the top and back down without incident. I was glad I didn't have those Scarpas mountaineering boots that I rented last year.

The End 

I remember being so excited to reach the sign near the trailhead that said "Permits required". I was even more excited to see the WAG bag disposal (LOL). I had grabbed a bear horn that has been hanging off a branch about 1/4 mile up. I finally reached the trailhead and quietly whispered to myself "I made it!".

I hung the bear horn in the kiosk, leafed through the log book to find my entry and scribble my return time.

The other two cars that had been parked ahead and behind me were gone. I took my time to remove my boots and wet sun shirt. I shoved my bedding out of the way and tossed my pack in the back of the Jeep. I changed into my street clothes.

Driving down the bumpy road, my next goal was to reach pavement again.

The drive back to Woodland was routine like after all those trail work parties. I was extra worn out but satisfied with my accomplishment.

What's next? Mt Adams, South Sister? TBD. 

Hike: Ape Cave Return Path and Lower Passage, Cougar, WA

Getting There

It's 28 miles from Woodland to the Cougar. There are a couple of gas stations here. Continue east on SR-503 which becomes Rd 90 for 9.5 miles to Ape Cave. Looks for the sign to Ape Caves, June Lake, Climber's Bivouac, Ape Canyon & Lava Canyon which is Rd 83. It's 0.3 miles to Trail of Two Forests and 0.7 miles to Ape Cave.

However, there was road construction on Rd 83 so the only way to get there, and other places north like Marble Mountain, June Lake, Ape and Lava Canyon was to get Road 81 past Merrill Lake and Kalama Horse Camp. This deterred a lot of would-be visitors but there were still folks that persevered and made it.

I was here for an MSHI mentor shift but no one had signed up. Normally I would just spend the day at the cave entrance, but I kinda wanted to take a break and explore the cave when fewer people were coming up. 

The Hike

Distance: 3.92 miles
Elevation Gain: 495 feet
Highest Elevation: 2,443 feet

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I started the day in the parking lot, collecting trash and cleaning up the bathrooms a bit. The Ape Headquarters Store was closed (Mon, Tue). I was the only "official" presence up there. 

I wandered up the info kiosk by the entrance and set up shop. I hung my array of visual aids and greeted the slow but steady trickle of novice cave explorers. Several groups had young kids and a few opted for the upper, more challenging, passage. 

One couple I met had parked near the FR-90/83 junction and hopped on their bikes to get to the site. Another couple parked below the road construction project and walked the road to get here.

After an hour or so, I realized I didn't have my radio, it was still in the car. I walked back down to the parking lot and retrieved it, and my lunch. I heard some noise coming from behind the still-closed store. I peaked around the corner and found Camille, a full-time USFS staff member. I'd never met her personally but knew her name. She was our POC for the trailwork on the S/SW side of the monument. She asked if it was I that cleaned the bathrooms. I said "yes" and tried to downplay it. She was so appreciative and repeated her "thanks" a few times. 

A pair of visitors found us and began asking questions about the site. I told them I'd be glad to escort them to the cave entrance and said goodbye to Camille. When we got there, I get them the run-down and they made their way to the lower passage. 

After noon, I figured I'd hike up to the upper cave's exit on the surface trail, to pick up trash, trim a few branches, and just get away from the stationary spot where I normally hang. Sometimes, the mosquitos and other insects can get annoying but there were few to none on this day. I was ready with a bug repellent gizmo I got from Sportsman's Warehouse. I encountered many visitors whom I'd seen earlier.

I returned to the kiosk but figured I do some roving in the lower cave. I took the opportunity to chat with a few folks down there, making sure to identify myself as an MSHI Volunteer. The last time I was in the lower cave was for the youth trip back in mid-Feb. We'd only gone as far as the "Meatball". I wanted to go to the "end", where the passage tapers down to a dead end. It was further past the "Meatball" than I remembered. 

When I got back, it was about time to leave. I packed up my visual aids and headed for the car.

I wanted to take a look at the washout between Marble Mountain and June Lake, as well as the road construction near the cave. I was a bit surprised to see the blockade had been removed and a car passed. I headed up to Marble Mountain first. I was happy to see all but one whoop-de-whoop was gone, back to pavement.

I did a u-turn and headed out. I was glad I didn't have to take the "long" way via Rd 81. The construction project was not done, still asphalt to be applied but it was easily passable, a huge improvement from the gnarly pothole that have been there for years. 

It was a great first shift of the season.

 

Hike: Ape Cave Upper Passage, Cougar, WA

Getting There

It's 28 miles from Woodland to the Cougar. There are a couple of gas stations here. Continue east on SR-503 which becomes Rd 90 for 9.5 miles to Ape Cave. Looks for the sign to Ape Caves, June Lake, Climber's Bivouac, Ape Canyon & Lava Canyon which is Rd 83. It's 0.3 miles to Trail of Two Forests and 0.7 miles to Ape Cave.

I was here for an MSHI shift and normally I would just spend the day at the cave entrance, but I kinda wanted to explore the cave when fewer people were coming up. Last time I went through the upper passage was back in June. The more times I have first hand knowledge of the cave, the better I feel about giving info & advice.

Additionally, when I was driving past the Cougar RV Park & Campground, I saw a banner for a Spelunking meeting and noticed some people climbing & lowering on ropes from a tree visible from SR-503. It was the 2024 NSS Western Regional of the National Speleological Society, from Sept. 19th to 22nd!

The Hike

Distance: 2.64 miles
Elevation Gain: 377 feet
Maximum Elevation: 2,444 feet

In the afternoon when the crowds began to wane, I decided to take a spin through the upper passage. I left my visual aids tacked up to the kiosk.

I stowed my grocery bag behind the kiosk and donned my headlamp. I met some folks that weren't prepared: of the four people, only one had a flashlight and it was a cellphone light. They asked if I'd been in the cave before and I told them yes and that I was an MSHI volunteer. I recommended renting some lanterns from the Ape Cave store.

I didn't want to follow any one, so hung back while another group started their trek. When I couldn't see any lights ahead of me, I started cruising along. I could still hear some voice but at least they were getting the "full experience". I stopped a few times to take photos and the first rock pile after the "Big Room" took a while to get up and over.

I have a bunch of photos of the cave itself so I wanted to snap a few of the cave features including this "blowout". I heard another group approaching so I figured I'd wait and introduce myself. I explained how the "blowout" is formed. After chatting, they continued on and I said something sort of cringy. "I'll wait a minute but I'll be back here in the dark." Ugh.. why did I phrase it that way!! "I didn't mean it in creepy way". They laughed but maybe ironically. Durr!

I wanted to be out of the cave before 4:30p so I could still make my "out of service" call to Columbia on time. I took my time to be careful but didn't lollygag for too long at any one spot.

Eventually, I reached the first skylight. I thought about the story I heard from EMT Joe about having to rescue a woman that was stuck 1/2 way out of the hole. She couldn't get out and couldn't climb back down safely. Joe said they'd parked at the Cougar Sno-Park and accessed the skylight by traipsing through the forest.

I inspected the "route" and it looked sketchy. A slip from the first ledge would certainly result in at least an small injury.

 

I've been telling folks that neither the Lower or Upper caves have spots where you have to crawl around but I was wrong. Beside the Lava Falls wall and the squeeze point, there ARE a couple low spots in the Upper passage. I'll have to incorporate this info into my pre-hike spiel going forward.

The exit

The exit

 

 

 

Hike: Mt St Helens Summit, Cougar, WA

Getting There

From Portland: Take I-5 N for 28 miles to Woodland. Take Exit 21 for WA-503 E to Cougar. Follow Lewis River Road (WA-503) for 30 miles. Continue east for another 3.4 miles past Cougar on Road 90 and take NF-83 for Ape Cave/Climber's Bivouac. Take this road for 3 mile then turn left on FS-81 for 0.4 miles. Turn right onto Road 830 (dirt/gravel) and take that to Climber's Bivouac (2.2 miles).

I did make a couple of stops in Woodland. First, I went to Grocery Outlet to get a few more things that I forgot to get at New Seasons: bananas, plus I read that peanut butter and whole grain bread was a good food for sustained energy. I just ate the bananas whole but might be good to put in the sandwich as well as some honey.

I remember in the past, I've eaten a big slice of vegetarian lasagna but didn't want to buy a camp stove to heat it up. When I've stayed in Woodland, I've gotten to-go food from Mali Thai Cafe. I always remember it was piping hot and took awhile to cool down enough to eat. I thought it'd be a perfect noodle dish + protein (chicken) and would still be warm when I reached the Climber's Bivouac.

Oops. I forgot to get Gatorade at either of my grocery trips so I stopped at the Lakeside Country Store. I grabbed two bottles of sugar-free Gatorade and one more Clif bar to throw in my pack.

On the road up camp, I passed Ranger Trevor but he didn't recognize me in my car and not in MSHI colors.

I circled the lot once and found a good level spot. It was where I camped in 2022, the year I didn't reach the summit. No bad omen. LOL. It was adjacent to the pit toilet. I sent my mom a "I"m here message" on the Garmin but realized I had a cell signal: not sure if the iPhone 15+ has a better radio or cell coverage is better at camp. I noticed my coordinates were missing from the message (again!) so I sent a text message. I set up my cocoon in the back of the Jeep and ate my dinner. Soon it was dark and I got situated inside.

I slept pretty well but remember some cars that drove through the parking lot with high beams on (argh!) and one person that sat there with headlights on and foot on the brake. I was mildly annoyed thinking this person was idling and spewing exhaust just sitting there in the dark at 11pm. I realize I could tell if the engine was on and the tail lights really didn't illuminate my situation. 

I set an alarm for a 6am departure but when the time came, I was slow to get out of my sleeping bag. I eventually got up and started getting ready. I hit the trail at 6:40a.

The Hike

Length: 8.80 mi
Elev. gain: 4,531 ft
Moving time: 6:07:45
Avg pace: 41:47
Calories: 3,722
Total time: 9:23:49

Backstory

I've been down lately as the summer is coming to a close. There were some high points (volunteering with MSHI & mentoring new folks, working with WTA on trail work and log outs, getting my vest for 25 days of service) but there were some low points sprinkled in (dropping a large rock on my chest, a bout with vertigo and Benign paroxysmal positional vertigo (BPPV)). I also wasn't sure where I would be after a year living off Alberta but this time has buzzed by quickly.

Last time I did this climb (Sep 6, 2023), it was just a few days before I closed on my house on N Argyle (sale). The summer of 2023 was very difficult and this hike was a triumph of will, perseverance, and fitness, somewhat in spite of Rheumatoid arthritis. The previous year I had come up short on my climb, having turned back on the last section of trail. I was mentally beating myself and hadn't had the right foods/fuel.

I thought about Fred Beckey and how he continued to climb until he couldn't. Would I make it this time? I've always told myself that I was richer from my experiences and could find solace in those memories when the time came when I can no longer hike. I'm not sure I believe it but I also plan to drag my ass to the trail in whatever condition I'm in. Maybe I won't be able to tackle Hamilton Mtn or MSH but I'll put up with the hassle and discomfort to be in nature, even if the risk for self-rescue is higher. I remember seeing a guy with cerebral palsy that was out on the trail with his dog. I saw my future self in this person.

This year, I was determined to make it again despite some self-doubt. Also, I've been having R foot issues that threatened to thwart my attempt this year. I rented some Scarpa boots from the Mountain Shop on NE Sandy Blvd so my foot didn't flex and cause pain.

The Wooded Section

I got on the trail at 6:40a, still dressed for the cool weather. I imagined reaching the summit and convincing my brain that I could do it again. The power of the mind is potent. I took moments to appreciate where I was and how fortunate I am to be able to visit this place. The day was shaping up to be incredible with the weather and it made me smile.

Onto the Rocks

At the treeline at 4800', I met a guy that was resting on a rock. I said something about the clear skies. He'd just moved to Oregon and was looking forward to his climb. I mentioned some other nearby trails and wished him a successful summit.

Up on the first rock field, I'd stopped to shed a layer and adjust my pack when he caught up. A cloud had blown in front of the sun. I told him, "crap, I hope I didn't jinx the weather". As I continued up I waved and said "one step at a time, be safe".

Even though I had my sights on the summit, I set short term goals. The counting system worked well and setting milestones like a big rock or a lodge pole for my next break or water stop helped me keep my pace and stamina. I tried not to look towards the top too much because it seemed so far away. I was the tortoise in the The Tortoise and the Hare. I had plenty of time and no where to be.

The Vertical Beach

I realize the "beach" is a bit higher up but I knew I'd successfully made it passed the series of rocky steps and actual climbing. From here to the top is just a steep walk on loose pumice sand. I didn't take any photos of the vertical beach but it is deeper than this lower part. Two steps up, one step back. Hiking poles are key for minimizing backslide. I did have to pinch myself. I was feeling good physically, emotionally, and it is such an incredible place.

The Summit

Hell yeah!! I made it. I counted 10 or 12 sets of 20 on the last section. A couple was stopped: the guy was sitting and massaging his leg, staving off a cramp. I stopped and chatted with his partner. She recognized my MSHI patch and commented. It was a good diversion for me. I was outside of my head. I said I'd see them at the top and kept pushing.

When I finally took those last steps to the ridge and saw Spirit Lake, I was so fucking happy. This was my third time to the summit. I was really here. I felt pretty good. There wasn't any wind, the views were amazing in all directions. I could see Mt Rainier (Tahoma), Mt Adams (Klicktat/Pahto), Mt Hood, Mt Jefferson (Seekseekqua), and possibly Mt Washington.

I saw the couple I'd seen on the trail. We chatted some more and I told them I didn't want to leave but knew there was still a 3hr hike back down to the car. I mentioned the trail on the west side of the ravine below the boulders was a bit faster than weaving through the rocks. (I realize there is a similar trail between the rocky trail and my "shortcut"; maybe next time!).

I kept pace with several groups of hikers on their descent. One person asked me the best route but they were doing just fine and pulled ahead after a short while. I mentioned to one about not wearing gloves for the scramble down the boulders. I didn't mean it anyway other than I know my hands would have been shredded without my gloves.

Here is a shot of my alternate path. Maybe folks have used this route as evidenced by the boot prints in the soft pumice sand. It's not so much a shortcut as a path that has fewer obstacles to weave around. From the looks of it, there is a similar path on the other side of the ravine, below the lodge pole route I'd take up.

The "Shortcut"

Back to the woods

The last 2.5 miles was tough. My legs were so sore and my feet were complaining loudly. Each step was painful but I knew I was almost back to the forest trail which offered a softer dirt trail and shade. I'd left my sunscreen in the car so I knew my face was sun burnt.

A family of four had passed me on the rocks. I chatted with one guy that was waiting for his dad. We agreed it was great to be back to the trees. I wished him well and waved to the mom and the other son as they waited.

I tried my best to ignore the pain in my feet. I cursed at the check steps and exposed roots on my way down. The gift that keeps giving. LOL. I purposefully didn't check my map. I knew the trailhead would appear around the last turn eventually.

When I saw the sign about needing a permit after 4800', I was so relieved. I'd made it! Fuck yea!

Note of caution

Even though I consider this hike a resounding success, I have to acknowledge the three times that could have been terrible. Twice, I'd almost lost my footing on the boulders which could have resulted in a nasty fall and injury. I also had a close call on the shortcut. It's a reminder that despite it's popularity, accidents can happen, usually on the descent when you're tired and getting a little sloppy. In the end, they were close calls and not incidents that caused injury and/or required assistance. Whew. I wouldn't change a thing. 

What's next? 

Maybe Mt Adams, South Sister, a trip to Muir Camp, somewhere else. I think it's time to switch it up. I've done MSH 4 times with 3 summits. I want to bag some other peaks... while I can.