Getting There
From Portland: Take I-5 N for 28 miles to Woodland. Take Exit 21 for WA-503 E to Cougar. Follow Lewis River Road (WA-503) for 30 miles. Continue east for another 3.4 miles past Cougar on Road 90 and take NF-83 for Ape Cave/Climber's Bivouac. Take this road for 3 mile then turn left on FS-81 for 0.4 miles. Turn right onto Road 830 (dirt/gravel) and take that to Climber's Bivouac (2.2 miles).
When passing through Woodland, I was going to get some gas and stop at Mali Thai Cafe to get some Chicken Pad Thai. Even though I'd take one last look at my living space to make sure I didn't forget anything, I still had a lingering feeling that I'd left something, important stuff. I opened the back of the Jeep and took a gander. Dammit! I had my HH puffer but I could not find my hiking pants! I'm sure they weren't on the floor when I took the last look but where were they? I then recalled, I'd grabbed the 34W and put them back and didn't grab the 32W.
I considered my options: Drive up to Kelso and get a pair from Sportsman's Warehouse. Hit or miss. Stop at the Kuh'l & Birkenstock store in Ridgefield, WA but I knew they didn't carry the Klash. I had to drive all the way back home and get them, fuel is cheaper than another pair of pants. I made the drive to Portland and back to Woodland. I got my Chicked Pad Thai and headed toward Cougar.
In Cougar, I stopped at the Lakeside Country Store to get some money for camping and some snacks for the hike: 3 snack bars (dark chocolate w/ cashews & cherries), cheese, something else.
Next stop: Climber's Bivouac!
It was pretty packed around the small loop. I thought the recent weather (snow) might have deterred some folks but nope, we're all nuts! I ended up back near the trailhead, across from the loo.
I made my bed in the back of the Jeep and got my Pad Thai to eat and listen to Alan Watts.
I was feeling reluctant to get up but I had to use the loo. From inside the car, it looked cold but in reality it wasn't bad at all, maybe 60 deg F. I took care of business and started to get ready. Before putting on my pack, I wandered over to the trailhead and filled out an entry in the climbing logbook. At the last minute, I removed a couple of things from my pack to try to lighten the load even just a little. I worried if I had overestimated the weather and recent snow.
Other hikers signed in and headed up the trail. It was time to go! I hit the trail at about 7:15 am.
The Hike
Length: 9.06 mi
Elev. gain: 4,498 ft
Moving time: 7h 11m
Avg. pace: 47:32
Total time: 9h 44m
It took a little while to get used to my pack (weight) and even though it wasn't too cold, I hiked in my 32 Degree puffer. I knew I was sweating underneath but vaguely planned to stop at the tree line. Before the defunct last-chance bathroom and Loowit junction, I stopped to snap of picture looking south.
I was pretty tired at the tree line. I stupidly removed my spare base layer trying to lighten my pack. All I had was one fleece shirt. My puffer was soaked as well. Not a great way to start. I put on the fleece over bare skin and started up the boulders. Here we go!
Fast forward, I turned around I check my progress. and admire the view and being sandwiched between low and high clouds.
It was pretty gray and I wasn't super thrilled by the weather but kept pushing up and onward. I knew a 1/3rd of this climb is a mental game. (1/3rd nutrition, 1/3rd fitness).
This was my first glimpse of the summit/ridge. Actually, I was happy to see that the snow coverage wasn't that bad.
I zoomed in and could see two figures on the hump before the "true summit". This hump is just west of the point that the trail tops out on the Monitor Ridge trail and vertical beach.
I don't have a hard shell. I didn't even bring a proper rain coat. I threw this poncho in my pack as a "just-in-case". Well, I needed it cuz rain began to fall. Not hard but still. I was kind of a pain in the ass with my pack and restricted arm movement. I looked silly but was mostly dry: my fleece-covered arms were still exposed to the rain.
More epic views to the south. There's Mt Hood in the upper left. Also, you can see a fellow climber in red jacket at the edge of the rocks in the center.
Another climber making their way up the boulders.
Mt Jefferson made an appearance in this picture, just west (right) of Hood.
I made sure to enjoy the views along the way. When doing this difficult physical challenge, you can get laser focused (tunnel vision) on getting the top but the WHOLE climb is amazing. The route mostly follows ridge, there were a few times when I hiked up to the edge to gaze toward the 83 road and Mt Adams.
I was surprised when I noticed a person in a pink or peach colored outfit. Then, noticed a second person in black clothing. They were on the Winter Route (Worm Flows!). Nice! (In fact, I met a guy that had also come up via the Winter Route and had passed that couple on his assent. Nice guy, 20s. I wish I was in his shape and level of fitness. Youth! amirite!?
Holy cow. I really wasn't sure if I was going to make it this year. I seem to say this every time! Since climb #2 when I turned around short of the rim, I knew I had to be gentle with myself and not see turning around as a failure. Savvy hikers and climbers know, reaching the summit is optional, getting back to the car is mandatory. Know your limits, know when to turn back.
I read Andy's trip report from the weekend: only a small group made it to the top and headed down right away due to weather (snow, rain, cold, wind). An MSHI guided climb has aborted their trip lower down.
The low clouds were staying put and I could see people on the rim and the final section of trail. Wow! I made it this far. "I'm gonna make it" I told myself, only partially believing myself. I knew I had to keep the doubts at bay.
I'd reached the weather station, just a couple more bumps to go before the "beach".
I was so thankful to meet this group of three. We chatted along the way and I kinda synced my stops with theirs. In a way, I felt accountable. There was a little bit of pride having mentioned I was an MSHI volunteer. I was my way to get out of my head and stop hearing the little voice trying to get me to give up the goal. Meeting others on the route has been a full-proof.
Fuck ya! I made it. In fact, I did the "count to 20" to break that long slog into little bits. I was 20 steps from the top and still had to rest.
I was elated to have made it. I knew I still had to get down but also wanted to enjoy the sun that came out and the amazing clouds. I love the clear days I've enjoyed on the rim but the clouds really make the photos so much better.
I didn't snap many photos on the way down. I was focused on ensuring my knees and legs were good. I noticed squirrel checking out the views. There was a crow nearby flying around. I think this little critter was keeping watch and cautious. It didn't seem to pay me much attention. Probably a nest with little kits nearby.
After this section, I encountered some heavy fog and it was darker. A couple other guys were heading down at the same time. We gave each other some tips and helped with route finding. The right way was impossible to see.
Eventually, we had different ideas of where to climb down and I went left when they went right. I pulled out my phone and checked AllTrails. I needed to go left a bit to stay on track. Well, I overshot by quite a bit.
It's funny to see the actual path I took on the way up and down. Around 6398 ft, I deviated too far to the left (east). I course-corrected pretty quick and found my way to the route.
My legs and knees were screaming. This is where injuries happen. I took my time. I was glad to be out of the boulders but this section is still difficult. The fog was still heavy at this elevation so I didn't know until I was there that I'd almost made it to the turn to the last set of boulders before the treeline and dirt.
I was so relieved to have made it back to the forest. However, the way the trail is eroded and the roots, I still had some obstacles to overcome before I could relax. I was on auto-pilot and legs felt like noodles. I don't know what I was thinking, just visualizing being back at the car.
I remember thinking "if I encountered a bear or cougar, I was fucked." LOL.
I finally turned a corner and saw the parking lot. Yes!
9 miles, 4500 feet of EG, 10 hours. Fucking A!
