Hike: Mt St Helens Summit, Cougar, WA

Getting There

From Portland: Take I-5 N for 28 miles to Woodland. Take Exit 21 for WA-503 E to Cougar. Follow Lewis River Road (WA-503) for 30 miles. Continue east for another 3.4 miles past Cougar on Road 90 and take NF-83 for Ape Cave/Climber's Bivouac. Take this road for 3 mile then turn left on FS-81 for 0.4 miles. Turn right onto Road 830 (dirt/gravel) and take that to Climber's Bivouac (2.2 miles).

When passing through Woodland, I was going to get some gas and stop at Mali Thai Cafe to get some Chicken Pad Thai. Even though I'd take one last look at my living space to make sure I didn't forget anything, I still had a lingering feeling that I'd left something, important stuff. I opened the back of the Jeep and took a gander. Dammit! I had my HH puffer but I could not find my hiking pants! I'm sure they weren't on the floor when I took the last look but where were they? I then recalled, I'd grabbed the 34W and put them back and didn't grab the 32W.

I considered my options: Drive up to Kelso and get a pair from Sportsman's Warehouse. Hit or miss. Stop at the Kuh'l & Birkenstock store in Ridgefield, WA but I knew they didn't carry the Klash. I had to drive all the way back home and get them, fuel is cheaper than another pair of pants. I made the drive to Portland and back to Woodland. I got my Chicked Pad Thai and headed toward Cougar.

In Cougar, I stopped at the Lakeside Country Store to get some money for camping and some snacks for the hike: 3 snack bars (dark chocolate w/ cashews & cherries), cheese, something else. 

Next stop: Climber's Bivouac!

It was pretty packed around the small loop. I thought the recent weather (snow) might have deterred some folks but nope, we're all nuts! I ended up back near the trailhead, across from the loo.

I made my bed in the back of the Jeep and got my Pad Thai to eat and listen to Alan Watts. 

I was feeling reluctant to get up but I had to use the loo. From inside the car, it looked cold but in reality it wasn't bad at all, maybe 60 deg F. I took care of business and started to get ready. Before putting on my pack, I wandered over to the trailhead and filled out an entry in the climbing logbook. At the last minute, I removed a couple of things from my pack to try to lighten the load even just a little. I worried if I had overestimated the weather and recent snow.

Other hikers signed in and headed up the trail. It was time to go! I hit the trail at about 7:15 am. 

The Hike 

Length: 9.06 mi
Elev. gain: 4,498 ft
Moving time: 7h 11m
Avg. pace: 47:32
Total time: 9h 44m 

 

 

 

 

 

 
It took a little while to get used to my pack (weight) and even though it wasn't too cold, I hiked in my 32 Degree puffer. I knew I was sweating underneath but vaguely planned to stop at the tree line. Before the defunct last-chance bathroom and Loowit junction, I stopped to snap of picture looking south.

I was pretty tired at the tree line. I stupidly removed my spare base layer trying to lighten my pack. All I had was one fleece shirt. My puffer was soaked as well. Not a great way to start. I put on the fleece over bare skin and started up the boulders. Here we go!

Fast forward, I turned around I check my progress. and admire the view and being sandwiched between low and high clouds.

It was pretty gray and I wasn't super thrilled by the weather but kept pushing up and onward. I knew a 1/3rd of this climb is a mental game. (1/3rd nutrition, 1/3rd fitness).

This was my first glimpse of the summit/ridge. Actually, I was happy to see that the snow coverage wasn't that bad.

I zoomed in and could see two figures on the hump before the "true summit". This hump is just west of the point that the trail tops out on the Monitor Ridge trail and vertical beach.

I don't have a hard shell. I didn't even bring a proper rain coat. I threw this poncho in my pack as a "just-in-case". Well, I needed it cuz rain began to fall. Not hard but still. I was kind of a pain in the ass with my pack and restricted arm movement. I looked silly but was mostly dry: my fleece-covered arms were still exposed to the rain.

More epic views to the south. There's Mt Hood in the upper left. Also, you can see a fellow climber in red jacket at the edge of the rocks in the center.

Another climber making their way up the boulders.

Mt Jefferson made an appearance in this picture, just west (right) of Hood.

I made sure to enjoy the views along the way. When doing this difficult physical challenge, you can get laser focused (tunnel vision) on getting the top but the WHOLE climb is amazing. The route mostly follows ridge, there were a few times when I hiked up to the edge to gaze toward the 83 road and Mt Adams.

I was surprised when I noticed a person in a pink or peach colored outfit. Then, noticed a second person in black clothing. They were on the Winter Route (Worm Flows!). Nice! (In fact, I met a guy that had also come up via the Winter Route and had passed that couple on his assent. Nice guy, 20s. I wish I was in his shape and level of fitness. Youth! amirite!?

Holy cow. I really wasn't sure if I was going to make it this year. I seem to say this every time! Since climb #2 when I turned around short of the rim, I knew I had to be gentle with myself and not see turning around as a failure. Savvy hikers and climbers know, reaching the summit is optional, getting back to the car is mandatory. Know your limits, know when to turn back. 

I read Andy's trip report from the weekend: only a small group made it to the top and headed down right away due to weather (snow, rain, cold, wind). An MSHI guided climb has aborted their trip lower down.

The low clouds were staying put and I could see people on the rim and the final section of trail. Wow! I made it this far. "I'm gonna make it" I told myself, only partially believing myself. I knew I had to keep the doubts at bay.

I'd reached the weather station, just a couple more bumps to go before the "beach".

I was so thankful to meet this group of three. We chatted along the way and I kinda synced my stops with theirs. In a way, I felt accountable. There was a little bit of pride having mentioned I was an MSHI volunteer. I was my way to get out of my head and stop hearing the little voice trying to get me to give up the goal. Meeting others on the route has been a full-proof.

Fuck ya! I made it. In fact, I did the "count to 20" to break that long slog into little bits. I was 20 steps from the top and still had to rest. 

I was elated to have made it. I knew I still had to get down but also wanted to enjoy the sun that came out and the amazing clouds. I love the clear days I've enjoyed on the rim but the clouds really make the photos so much better.

I didn't snap many photos on the way down. I was focused on ensuring my knees and legs were good. I noticed squirrel checking out the views. There was a crow nearby flying around. I think this little critter was keeping watch and cautious. It didn't seem to pay me much attention. Probably a nest with little kits nearby.

After this section, I encountered some heavy fog and it was darker. A couple other guys were heading down at the same time. We gave each other some tips and helped with route finding. The right way was impossible to see. 

Eventually, we had different ideas of where to climb down and I went left when they went right. I pulled out my phone and checked AllTrails. I needed to go left a bit to stay on track. Well, I overshot by quite a bit.

It's funny to see the actual path I took on the way up and down. Around 6398 ft, I deviated too far to the left (east). I course-corrected pretty quick and found my way to the route. 

My legs and knees were screaming. This is where injuries happen. I took my time. I was glad to be out of the boulders but this section is still difficult. The fog was still heavy at this elevation so I didn't know until I was there that I'd almost made it to the turn to the last set of boulders before the treeline and dirt.

I was so relieved to have made it back to the forest. However, the way the trail is eroded and the roots, I still had some obstacles to overcome before I could relax. I was on auto-pilot and legs felt like noodles. I don't know what I was thinking, just visualizing being back at the car. 

I remember thinking "if I encountered a bear or cougar, I was fucked." LOL.

I finally turned a corner and saw the parking lot. Yes!

9 miles, 4500 feet of EG, 10 hours. Fucking A! 

Hike: Oneonta Gorge + Triple Falls via Horsetail Falls, Cascade Locks, OR

Getting There

I wanted to get in one more hike for WTA's Hike-a-Thon. I was expecting to see signs about needing a permit for Multnomah Falls but I never saw one (Hwy 30, I-84). I decided to chance it. When I arrived in the parking lot there are a number of open spots so I thought I was golden. I got geared up and started towards the tunnel. 

I realized there were a number of people milling around near the ramp down the tunnel. I thought they were just waiting for people at their car or a shuttle pickup. I noticed two people in orange vests at the tunnel entrance: they were checking permits. Fuck! I scanned the QR code and paid $2 but my time slot was for 3pm but it was only 2:20pm. After a min, I decided "fuck that". I'm not waiting 40 mins to start my hike, I can't afford to waste the daylight.

Annoyed, I marched back to the Jeep and threw my stuff in the back. I wasn't even going to see the Falls, I was hiking away. I wondered if the "gatekeepers" would have let me through, given my intent and destination.

I hopped back on the freeway and went to Horsetail Falls via exit 35 (Ainsworth State Park). There was one open spot but at least I wasn't parked on the side of the road like last time. 

The Hike

Length: 5.98 miles
Elev. gain: 1,644ft
Moving time: 2h 29m
Total time: 2h 46m
Avg. pace: 24:49
Calories: 1,309
Total time: 2h 46m

 

 

 

 

 

Even though it was just 2 days since my big hike at Hamilton/BRSP, I felt like my legs were in good enough condition to go for another spin. To be honest, my left hand still hurt and my jaw is still sore, for some reason. It was for a good cause: Hike-a-Thon!

I passed a few people on the way up but pretty much had the place to myself.

To my surprise, I made it to Triple Falls in about an hour. Dang! Not to shabby. I feel really good about climbing MSH next month.... two weeks!!!! I've been worried my lack of hikes this year would set me back physically but I've still been doing trailwork, i.e. hiking with tools but not the same mileage or EG.

This close to my climb date, I feel like I have the right level of fitness. Combined with proper nutrition (before and during) and mental toughness & resilience I should have a successful day on the mountain. The biggest unknown is the conditions: weather, fires.

Since I was feeling good I figured I keep going up, the bridge back across the creek. I also set a turn around time of 4pm and it was already 3:40pm. The trail looked like it had been brushed somewhat recently, however I got to a spot where it looked like the trail work ended. The fireweed seeds were drifting in the air all over the place. When I would brush against them, it would cause of cloud of seeds to surround me. Ugh. I didn't want to deal with that for another 1/4 mile for minimal distance and EG gain. This was a exercise hike after all.

I promptly turned around and enjoyed my descent. 

There was one sunbather at Triple Falls so I did my best to give them their privacy. I took some photos facing north, a(nother) selfie.

I felt good about my decision to get out of the house.

This was routine hike.

I made it back across the river and continued towards the viewpoint west of Ponytail Falls.

The views from there are great. I noticed the plaque for Glenn W. Replogle, a 14-yo that fell from Horsetail Falls in 1988. Sad and a reminder that these beautiful places are also dangerous and demand respect.

I loved seeing Archer and Hamilton across the river, formed 5-17 millions years ago. 
See Columbia River Basalt Group.

 

Hike: Hamilton Mountain + Bridge Trail + Hardy Creek, N Bonneville, WA

Getting there

Just after Doetsch Ranch you'll see the Ranger Station on the north side of the road just before the Beacon Rock parking lot, then another road across from the bathrooms. The road winds up the hill for a bit.

I haven't been here since May 12. I haven't been hiking much this year, though I've done a bunch of trail work parties, some I've recorded, some I have not. I've been participating in WTA's annual Hike-a-Thon fundraiser and it was getting to the end of the month and I needed to squeeze one more hike in. 

Plus, I got a climbing permit for MSH next month and I needed to see what kind of shape I'm in. I've realized over the years that a successful summit is one part fitness, one part nutrition, one part mental toughness, and probably a sprinkle of luck (conditions).

The weather was much improved, AQI levels down to almost nothing. It was overcast and my brain said cool but it was a bit humid. I geared up and stripped off a layer before setting out.

The Hike

Length: 12.0mi
Elev. gain: 2,772ft
Moving time: 4h 38m
Total time: 5h 36m
Avg. pace: 23:11
Calories: 2,453

It felt really good to be back on my favorite trail to close out the month. I still seem to get more winded and I've tried adjusting my pace. When I did the GOH hikes recently, I had to hike slower to stay with the group and felt great so I guess it's about finding the right balance of speed and breathing.

Somewhere between the power lines and Rodney Falls, I ran into a fellow member of the PortlandHikers FB group. I've admired this guy from afar: he posts hikes with long mileage and lots of EG. I recognized him instantly and said hello. In my haste I didn't properly introduce myself to him and his hiking partner, oops.

I continued at a good pace and made it to the switchbacks in good time and was feeling pretty good, definitely warmed up. 

When I reached Baby Ham, Piglet?, there were a bunch of people relaxing on the outcrop. I continued up the trail. I ended up taking the unofficial trail to Little Ham. I kind of knew that some of those people probably saw me head up. It was easy, it took less than 10 mins to disappear out of sight. 

After a short break on Little Ham, I made my way down the trail. I was feeling confident if not a little complacent. I slipped once and told myself to be more careful. When the trail was in sight I slipped again but this time hyper-extended my L index finger. Fuck! Not broken but really painful. It would throb for the rest of the hike but the pain diminished eventually. 

I passed a few people on my ascent. After turn 14, I shot a couple of videos. While recording as I hiked to the summit, I heard voices. When I got to end, I ended the video so I didn't include the other hikers. I'm not an influencer! LOL.

I took a spin to review our work from the spring. I also verified the decommed section was still.... decommed. It was.

Next was the descent to the Saddle. The trail was in good shape and seemed like the park rangers have brushed unless I missed another work party!

At the Saddle, I did a little recon to see how doable climbing up to the rocky outcrop was. I followed user trail as far as I could, to the point where the "trail" ends and it's a scramble. It looked feasible but not with my hand in its condition and probably not alone. I'm guessing going up wouldn't be too bad, it was the "coming down" that gave me pause. Maybe another time.

At the north end of the Saddle, I stopped to take some pictures and noticed a couple coming my way. I scooted off down the trail. 

I dipped off at Don's Cutoff. When I reached the main switchback, the forest was so quiet, not a sound at all: no wind, no bugs, no birds, no water. I closed my eyes for min or so. Amazing. Then, I heard that couple - dang! I scooted off again.

I wasn't planning to extend my hike beyond the usual loop but I wanted to get away from the other hikers. When I got to the Upper Hardy Creek trail, I headed up towards the Bridge Trail.

I vaguely considered a two-peak-day, adding Phlox Point to my day but then the weather changed. It started raining, like quite a bit. I was mostly protected under the dense canopy but it was loud hitting the leaves. I revised my goal to just walk up to the end of the road. Nope.

I turned around and started hiking down to the Equestrian Trail. When I got to Hardy Creek, the rain had stopped and the sun was out. Dang! I might have had some killer views from Phlox Point. I stopped at the picnic table and ate my sandwich.

The descent back to the Hamilton Mtn Trail was uneventful. I made sure to pause a few times to appreciate how lucky I am to be there/here.

I caught up with a couple of hikers I'd seen earlier in the day. I tried to give them some room but I knew I had a faster pace. Fortunately, they stopped and I was able to scoot by, making a remark about the weather.

To complete my "usual loop", I hiked through Hadley Grove to Little Beacon. I passed a family of 5-6. 

At the top of the viewpoint, I had the place to myself. The sun was still high in the sky so I probably wouldn't wait until sunset.

I sat and had a snack. I feel confident to do the MSH climb in a couple of weeks. Despite not hiking much, I'm still in decent shape. As I told Ted and Ethan, I didn't have to summit to have a good day on the mountain.