Hike: Mt St Helens Summit, Cougar, WA

Getting There

From Portland: Take I-5 N for 28 miles to Woodland. Take Exit 21 for WA-503 E to Cougar. Follow Lewis River Road (WA-503) for 30 miles. Continue east for another 3.4 miles past Cougar on Road 90 and take NF-83 for Ape Cave/Climber's Bivouac. Take this road for 3 mile then turn left on FS-81 for 0.4 miles. Turn right onto Road 830 (dirt/gravel) and take that to Climber's Bivouac (2.2 miles).

I was not in the best mood when I left Portland. I'd woken up early for my bi-monthly counseling session then gone back to bed. I didn't wake up until about noon. Feeling stressed by the whole thing. Why did I put this pressure on myself? Deep inside I knew I had to try, heck just a night of camping was better than staying home.

I was going to stop at Mali Thai Cafe to get some Chicken Pad Thai but made a decision to skip it this time. I'd gotten an Asian noodle salad from New Seasons. I wanted to pasta-like food to "carb load". I stopped for gas in Woodland and continued to trailhead.

In Cougar, I stopped at the rest stop for a bio-break, then popped over to the Lakeside Country Store to get some money for camping. I got a Chicken Bake, a couple bottles of water, and 3 snack bars (dark chocolate w/ cashews & cherries). The total was like $17.50.. crap. I still needed a $5 bill. I told the cashier that I needed to buy more stuff but she said she could break my $20 bill. I told her I appreciated it and thanked her as I left the store.

Next stop: Climber's Bivouac!

My "usual" spots were already taken as I drove the small loop. I ended up back near the trailhead, across from the loo.

I made my bed in the back of the Jeep and got my book out to read. I overheard several hikers who had seemingly chaperoned another hiker back to camp. They'd split up from their group and had gotten lost in the twilight, and lost their phone. Just 5 or 10 minutes later the rest of their group made it back. They were relieved to find their friend. One person apologized for bailing on the lone friend. Not great that they split up but also the friend shouldn't have waited for their group to summit and return down the route to reunite. I thought about introducing myself as an MSHI volunteer and offer to post a note on the FB page about the missing phone. I decided it was none of my business. They were going to post a note to the sign-in board.

When it got cooler, I closed up the back and crawled into my cocoon, hoping I could get some sleep. My mattress pad had already deflated a bit. Not sure why. I blew more air in it and tried to get comfortable. (I really need to get a bigger air mattress for the Jeep.)

I didn't sleep that well but good enough. I woke several times during the night. Around 5-6am, I noticed some cars arriving. I noticed a car parked right behind me even though there were plenty of open spot across the way; it annoyed me a bit. (This happened at WCF: I was the first car in the lot with 100 spots and the next car to arrive parked right next to me!)

I was feeling reluctant to get up but I had to use the loo. From inside the car, it looked cold but in reality it wasn't bad at all, maybe 60 deg F. I took care of business and started to get ready. I packed my gear, made a sandwich, ate some pasta salad and drank 1/2 a Guayakí tea. Before putting on my pack, I wandered over to the trailhead and filled out an entry in the climbing logbook.

I could see a golden light hitting the tops of the trees. It was time to go! I hit the trail at about 7:15 am. 

The Hike

Distance: 8.15 miles
Elevation Gain: 4540 feet
Started: 7:00 am
Ended: 3:00 pm
Duration: 8 hours 
    • 4h 15m ascent
    • 30m on the rim
    • 3h 15m descent 

 

 

The Forest 

This first picture was taken at around 7:30 am, about 30min into my hike. It didn't seem to take long at all to reach this point. I was feeling okay but still a bit unsure if I was ready to complete the hike all the way to the top. I was already giving myself permission to only part of the way. However, I noted that I had already passed a couple of groups of hikers that had started before me. 

I tried to make a point of enjoying the journey and not solely focusing on the goal.

The Boulders

I made quick work of the first set of boulders and started heading up the ridgeline. A couple passed me and disappeared in front of me. I told myself I didn't need to match anyone's pace, I was only my own time, and I had plenty.

In reviewing my photos, I didn't take that many pics on the route, just trying to do my best through the obstacles. To my (relative) surprise, I wasn't as winded as I'd been on the Herman Creek hike. 

I tried to keep my focus on the next lodge pole and picking good intervals to rest, hydrate, and have a snack to keep my energy up. 

The Vertical Beach

This is the last section of the hike and I was glad to be here. No more climbing up and over boulders. Just the loose pumice sand. A faint trail zigzagged up the mountain towards the rim. I could see people on the route and along the top. I could even make out colors, of clothing, of backpacks.

I was in the good spirits. I briefly recalled where I'd turned back in 2022 but knew I was gonna make it this time (again, for the 3rd time). Some hikers that were faster than me cruised by but it didn't bother me in the least. I was going as fast as I could, as I needed to. I remembered myself that everyone that I could see in the distance had been where I was now.

My legs felt good, my oxygen was good, my attitude was good. The only thing that was a bit challenging was the wind. By this time in the hike, I'd donned my goggles. In fact, much lower down, I thought the grit that was getting into my eye was going to be a bigger issue.

Somewhere along the way I started counting my paces: sets of 20 steps and a short break. After 3 sets, I would drink some water. I was out of liquid electrolytes but still had chewables in my pocket. 

The people ahead of me and on the rim were getting bigger. I estimated I had 20 more sets of 20 to go. After 10 sets, I took another rest and water break, no more than 30 or 40 secs. I mumbled to myself, "I'm gonna make it, I'm gonna make it!".

This time, I didn't stop. I powered through 5 sets of 20.

The Summit

In the last set, I counted to myself. "17-18-19-20"... viola! I was peering out over the crater, Spirit Lake, and Mt Rainier in the distance. Fach ya! "You did it, Larry" I reminded myself. I could barely see Coldwater Peak but everything west of there was hidden behind a huge wall of dust. The wind I'd been experiencing on the climb had been coming from the east. It was difficult to determine was direction the wind was blowing at the opening of the crater to stir up so much ash/pumice. The Glacier Overlook was hard to find but I could just make it out below. 

I thought briefly about traversing to the "true summit" as I had done that first year in 2021 but the wind was blowing too hard. It didn't feel safe even though I could see two climbers making there way back to where I was. I'd told myself I'd revisit the "true summit" this year but you have to trust your instinct. Another climber that I'd chatted with on the way echoed my concern.  

I only stayed on the summit for about 30 mins. I wasn't even hungry for my sandwich. I do regret not lingering for longer. I mean, I did go all that way. Way down below and in the days leading up to this hike I'd contemplated that I should enjoy this hike to the fullest as there were no guarantees I'd be able to make the journey again, possibly due to health reasons. However, standing the edge, I assured myself, I'll go to the "true summit" next time. I was sure there would be a "next time". 

The Descent

Again, I didn't take many photos on the way down. I do remember seeing a few people from one of the groups I'd seen on the trail below the treeline, I'd take a few group photos and one person had asked about my InReach.

Additionally, on the vertical beach, I passed a guy hiking up that was a fellow MSHI volunteer, a Climbing Steward, on a personal climb. I'd spotted the circular patch on his pack and introduced myself. Sadly, as I'm bad with names with sufficient repetition, I don't remember who it was.

This time, I opted to stay closer to the marked trail instead of take my "express" route on the other side of the ravine. I was getting tired but still had a lot of rocks to get over, through.

Finally, I reached the turn in the trail and final descent to the wooded part of the hike. I was so excited to reach dirt again. Under my breath I repeated, "I'm almost there, I'm almost there." I continued down cautiously but determined. I didn't want to slip this close to the forest, non-technical part of my descent.

I made it! I high-fived the "Permit Require above this elevation" sign.

Back Through The Forest

The last section of the journey is easier but no cake walk. My legs were aching and I had to step down over numerous roots that didn't seem so back in the other direction, up. It was hard on the knees and I used my hiking poles as best I could to cushion the deep steps down.

This part of the hike seemed to go forever even though it was the same 2 miles that seemed to be over quickly in the morning as I was getting started. Funny how perception changes, the ol' Summit Fever.

I was longing to reach the end. I made it to the top and back down without incident. I was glad I didn't have those Scarpas mountaineering boots that I rented last year.

The End 

I remember being so excited to reach the sign near the trailhead that said "Permits required". I was even more excited to see the WAG bag disposal (LOL). I had grabbed a bear horn that has been hanging off a branch about 1/4 mile up. I finally reached the trailhead and quietly whispered to myself "I made it!".

I hung the bear horn in the kiosk, leafed through the log book to find my entry and scribble my return time.

The other two cars that had been parked ahead and behind me were gone. I took my time to remove my boots and wet sun shirt. I shoved my bedding out of the way and tossed my pack in the back of the Jeep. I changed into my street clothes.

Driving down the bumpy road, my next goal was to reach pavement again.

The drive back to Woodland was routine like after all those trail work parties. I was extra worn out but satisfied with my accomplishment.

What's next? Mt Adams, South Sister? TBD. 

Hike: Mt St Helens Summit, Cougar, WA

Getting There

From Portland: Take I-5 N for 28 miles to Woodland. Take Exit 21 for WA-503 E to Cougar. Follow Lewis River Road (WA-503) for 30 miles. Continue east for another 3.4 miles past Cougar on Road 90 and take NF-83 for Ape Cave/Climber's Bivouac. Take this road for 3 mile then turn left on FS-81 for 0.4 miles. Turn right onto Road 830 (dirt/gravel) and take that to Climber's Bivouac (2.2 miles).

I did make a couple of stops in Woodland. First, I went to Grocery Outlet to get a few more things that I forgot to get at New Seasons: bananas, plus I read that peanut butter and whole grain bread was a good food for sustained energy. I just ate the bananas whole but might be good to put in the sandwich as well as some honey.

I remember in the past, I've eaten a big slice of vegetarian lasagna but didn't want to buy a camp stove to heat it up. When I've stayed in Woodland, I've gotten to-go food from Mali Thai Cafe. I always remember it was piping hot and took awhile to cool down enough to eat. I thought it'd be a perfect noodle dish + protein (chicken) and would still be warm when I reached the Climber's Bivouac.

Oops. I forgot to get Gatorade at either of my grocery trips so I stopped at the Lakeside Country Store. I grabbed two bottles of sugar-free Gatorade and one more Clif bar to throw in my pack.

On the road up camp, I passed Ranger Trevor but he didn't recognize me in my car and not in MSHI colors.

I circled the lot once and found a good level spot. It was where I camped in 2022, the year I didn't reach the summit. No bad omen. LOL. It was adjacent to the pit toilet. I sent my mom a "I"m here message" on the Garmin but realized I had a cell signal: not sure if the iPhone 15+ has a better radio or cell coverage is better at camp. I noticed my coordinates were missing from the message (again!) so I sent a text message. I set up my cocoon in the back of the Jeep and ate my dinner. Soon it was dark and I got situated inside.

I slept pretty well but remember some cars that drove through the parking lot with high beams on (argh!) and one person that sat there with headlights on and foot on the brake. I was mildly annoyed thinking this person was idling and spewing exhaust just sitting there in the dark at 11pm. I realize I could tell if the engine was on and the tail lights really didn't illuminate my situation. 

I set an alarm for a 6am departure but when the time came, I was slow to get out of my sleeping bag. I eventually got up and started getting ready. I hit the trail at 6:40a.

The Hike

Length: 8.80 mi
Elev. gain: 4,531 ft
Moving time: 6:07:45
Avg pace: 41:47
Calories: 3,722
Total time: 9:23:49

Backstory

I've been down lately as the summer is coming to a close. There were some high points (volunteering with MSHI & mentoring new folks, working with WTA on trail work and log outs, getting my vest for 25 days of service) but there were some low points sprinkled in (dropping a large rock on my chest, a bout with vertigo and Benign paroxysmal positional vertigo (BPPV)). I also wasn't sure where I would be after a year living off Alberta but this time has buzzed by quickly.

Last time I did this climb (Sep 6, 2023), it was just a few days before I closed on my house on N Argyle (sale). The summer of 2023 was very difficult and this hike was a triumph of will, perseverance, and fitness, somewhat in spite of Rheumatoid arthritis. The previous year I had come up short on my climb, having turned back on the last section of trail. I was mentally beating myself and hadn't had the right foods/fuel.

I thought about Fred Beckey and how he continued to climb until he couldn't. Would I make it this time? I've always told myself that I was richer from my experiences and could find solace in those memories when the time came when I can no longer hike. I'm not sure I believe it but I also plan to drag my ass to the trail in whatever condition I'm in. Maybe I won't be able to tackle Hamilton Mtn or MSH but I'll put up with the hassle and discomfort to be in nature, even if the risk for self-rescue is higher. I remember seeing a guy with cerebral palsy that was out on the trail with his dog. I saw my future self in this person.

This year, I was determined to make it again despite some self-doubt. Also, I've been having R foot issues that threatened to thwart my attempt this year. I rented some Scarpa boots from the Mountain Shop on NE Sandy Blvd so my foot didn't flex and cause pain.

The Wooded Section

I got on the trail at 6:40a, still dressed for the cool weather. I imagined reaching the summit and convincing my brain that I could do it again. The power of the mind is potent. I took moments to appreciate where I was and how fortunate I am to be able to visit this place. The day was shaping up to be incredible with the weather and it made me smile.

Onto the Rocks

At the treeline at 4800', I met a guy that was resting on a rock. I said something about the clear skies. He'd just moved to Oregon and was looking forward to his climb. I mentioned some other nearby trails and wished him a successful summit.

Up on the first rock field, I'd stopped to shed a layer and adjust my pack when he caught up. A cloud had blown in front of the sun. I told him, "crap, I hope I didn't jinx the weather". As I continued up I waved and said "one step at a time, be safe".

Even though I had my sights on the summit, I set short term goals. The counting system worked well and setting milestones like a big rock or a lodge pole for my next break or water stop helped me keep my pace and stamina. I tried not to look towards the top too much because it seemed so far away. I was the tortoise in the The Tortoise and the Hare. I had plenty of time and no where to be.

The Vertical Beach

I realize the "beach" is a bit higher up but I knew I'd successfully made it passed the series of rocky steps and actual climbing. From here to the top is just a steep walk on loose pumice sand. I didn't take any photos of the vertical beach but it is deeper than this lower part. Two steps up, one step back. Hiking poles are key for minimizing backslide. I did have to pinch myself. I was feeling good physically, emotionally, and it is such an incredible place.

The Summit

Hell yeah!! I made it. I counted 10 or 12 sets of 20 on the last section. A couple was stopped: the guy was sitting and massaging his leg, staving off a cramp. I stopped and chatted with his partner. She recognized my MSHI patch and commented. It was a good diversion for me. I was outside of my head. I said I'd see them at the top and kept pushing.

When I finally took those last steps to the ridge and saw Spirit Lake, I was so fucking happy. This was my third time to the summit. I was really here. I felt pretty good. There wasn't any wind, the views were amazing in all directions. I could see Mt Rainier (Tahoma), Mt Adams (Klicktat/Pahto), Mt Hood, Mt Jefferson (Seekseekqua), and possibly Mt Washington.

I saw the couple I'd seen on the trail. We chatted some more and I told them I didn't want to leave but knew there was still a 3hr hike back down to the car. I mentioned the trail on the west side of the ravine below the boulders was a bit faster than weaving through the rocks. (I realize there is a similar trail between the rocky trail and my "shortcut"; maybe next time!).

I kept pace with several groups of hikers on their descent. One person asked me the best route but they were doing just fine and pulled ahead after a short while. I mentioned to one about not wearing gloves for the scramble down the boulders. I didn't mean it anyway other than I know my hands would have been shredded without my gloves.

Here is a shot of my alternate path. Maybe folks have used this route as evidenced by the boot prints in the soft pumice sand. It's not so much a shortcut as a path that has fewer obstacles to weave around. From the looks of it, there is a similar path on the other side of the ravine, below the lodge pole route I'd take up.

The "Shortcut"

Back to the woods

The last 2.5 miles was tough. My legs were so sore and my feet were complaining loudly. Each step was painful but I knew I was almost back to the forest trail which offered a softer dirt trail and shade. I'd left my sunscreen in the car so I knew my face was sun burnt.

A family of four had passed me on the rocks. I chatted with one guy that was waiting for his dad. We agreed it was great to be back to the trees. I wished him well and waved to the mom and the other son as they waited.

I tried my best to ignore the pain in my feet. I cursed at the check steps and exposed roots on my way down. The gift that keeps giving. LOL. I purposefully didn't check my map. I knew the trailhead would appear around the last turn eventually.

When I saw the sign about needing a permit after 4800', I was so relieved. I'd made it! Fuck yea!

Note of caution

Even though I consider this hike a resounding success, I have to acknowledge the three times that could have been terrible. Twice, I'd almost lost my footing on the boulders which could have resulted in a nasty fall and injury. I also had a close call on the shortcut. It's a reminder that despite it's popularity, accidents can happen, usually on the descent when you're tired and getting a little sloppy. In the end, they were close calls and not incidents that caused injury and/or required assistance. Whew. I wouldn't change a thing. 

What's next? 

Maybe Mt Adams, South Sister, a trip to Muir Camp, somewhere else. I think it's time to switch it up. I've done MSH 4 times with 3 summits. I want to bag some other peaks... while I can.

Hike: Mt St Helens Summit, Cougar, WA

Getting There

From Portland: Take I-5 N for 28 miles to Woodland. Take Exit 21 for WA-503 E to Cougar. Follow Lewis River Road (WA-503) for 30 miles. Continue east for another 3.4 miles past Cougar on Road 90 and take NF-83 for Ape Cave/Climber's Bivouac. Take this road for 3 mile then turn left on FS-81 for 0.4 miles. Turn right onto Road 830 (dirt/gravel) and take that to Climber's Bivouac (2.2 miles).

I realized about half way between Woodland and Cougar that I'd left my hiking poles in my garage in Portland. It's weird how the mind works: I was listening to music and enjoying a leisure drive and it hit me. Fuck! I pulled over and did a search for the nearest store that would have some. I didn't want to drive all the way back to Portland. I thought it'd either be Woodland or Battle Ground. 

I found a Walmart in Woodland and double-backed. I wandered the section of the store where they were sure to be but I didn't see any trekking poles. I approached a store employee and asked. Yes. Aisle whatever. I panicked for a second, thinking they were out of stock but hooray!, a pair of aluminum poles. I grabbed 'em and a small cooler. (I'd also left my cooler at home and had guacamole and hummus from my stop at the Woodland Safeway a hour earlier). At this point I wanted to top up the gas tank and stopped at a AM/PM near the Walmart. I grabbed a small bag of ice and headed back out Lewis River Road. Whew!

When I got to Climber's Bivouac, I spent an hour or so organizing my stuff and putting snacks in plastic bags for the hike. There were people on the other side of the parking lot but I had my side to myself. It was pretty quiet since I didn't have my little Bluetooth speaker. Eventually, it got a bit cool and dark and I got in my cocoon in the back of my Jeep. Even with the yoga mat and blanket, I didn't have enough padding. Argh! Lying on top my sleeping bag helped.

I was awake every few hours as cars pulled into camp, their headlights illuminating the place briefly. Once I was in the sleeping bag, I really felt the lack of padding. 🤣. Luckily, there was just enough cell phone signal to stream some tunes from Spotify.

Around 4am I saw a few hikers with their headlamps walk by. I wasn't ready. Around 5:30a I put on my hiking clothes to warm them up in the sleeping bag. I waited until about 6am to get out of truck and take a wazz. I ate a banana and drank 1/2 can of maté: breakfast. I got on my boots and pack and walked to the sign-in board. There was just enough morning light to see my permit to enter the number into the register. I realized I might not have locked the car. I tried to see the taillights flash but couldn't. When I got back to the car, a big group was getting a pep talk. They were recruits or army reserves, about 10 guys. I pretended to get something out of the truck and consciously locked the car. Here we go!

The Hike

Distance: 8.18 miles
Elevation Gain: 4,570 ft
Highest Elevation: 8,258 ft
Total Time: 8h7m
Ascent: 6:15a - 10:45a (4h30m)
Time at Top: 10:45a - 11:35a (50m)
Descent: 11:35a - 2:22p (2h47m)

I started the hike through the forest. No other climbers were around. It was nice and quiet and I got adjusted to my pack.

At 6:56am, I was close to the Loowit Trail and sun was coming up.

At 7:09, I reached the treeline at about 4,800 ft. This is the end of the Ptarmigan Trail. I remember reaching this point back in 2020 when the idea of doing this climb was planted. I was just out exploring the lakes/reservoirs and drove up to Climber's Bivouac on a whim and did the hike. I had no idea what was involved.

I made my way up the Monitor trail and stopped to enjoy the views to the south and above me. A couple of pair of climbers past me and I passed a father and daughter that were doing this hike for the first time. I talked about my volunteer role on the trails below.

I didn't take any photos between 9:13a and 10:53a, after I'd reached the top. About 1/2 way up in the boulders, I synchronized with that group of military guys and chatted with a few of them. It felt good to have them as motivation and trail companionship, at least in my mind. I wondered how my fitness and age stacked up with the older guys and younger ones. The leader was a SAR guy and I overheard him talking about the gear he'd bring on these rescues.

There was one kid in the group that was struggling. Per the trailhead pep talk, the group took breaks every so often and wait for everyone to catch up. He was getting advice from the older guys. While I didn't revel in his discomfort, it reassured me that I was doing pretty damn good. All the worry about my recent arthritis symptoms and general anxiety about not reaching the top, thinking about my 2022 attempt was in my head.

I kept striving to reach the next lodge pole or rock or whatever: the counting method from Bear Grylls, thinking about Joe Simpson in Touching The Void. Breaking the big "thing" into smaller bits, like I have with Hamilton Mountain.

At the GPS station, I could see little dots of the people on the rim. The goal was within sight but it was still a 0.5 mile away. I was a bit nervous here. This is where I'd turned around last year. I continued hiking with the military guys and passed a couple of hikers. I just kept aiming for my next goal/milestone.

Eventually, the people at the rim looked a lot bigger. I was really going to make it! Fuck yea! I did my best to find other hikers' footprints and used them as steps. 

When the rim was close, I estimated I had 30 steps to go! I counted each one and it was actually just 32 steps. I made it!

I walked up to the high spot to the right of the end of the trail and took this photo! I turned and snapped the photo of that group of 10. They were hanging out on the other side. A pair of hikers I'd seen way below were sitting near them, eating sandwiches.

I walked towards the "true summit" but opted not to go. I was glad to be up there and regret not going a little but decided I'd head over there next year. I just enjoyed the views and the silence from up there. I'd purchased safety goggles because I'd anticipated wind and dust but it was perfect up there. It was so quiet you could here little rock falls in the crater but they were so small, I wasn't able to place them as there wasn't any dust.

True Summit from my spot on the rim

Shoestring Notch and Mt Adams

South view w/ Mt Hood, Mt Washington, Mt Jefferson

Crater view with Mt Rainier in far background

Panoramas