Hike: Mt St Helens Summit, Cougar, WA

Getting There

From Portland: Take I-5 N for 28 miles to Woodland. Take Exit 21 for WA-503 E to Cougar. Follow Lewis River Road (WA-503) for 30 miles. Continue east for another 3.4 miles past Cougar on Road 90 and take NF-83 for Ape Cave/Climber's Bivouac. Take this road for 3 mile then turn left on FS-81 for 0.4 miles. Turn right onto Road 830 (dirt/gravel) and take that to Climber's Bivouac (2.2 miles).

When passing through Woodland, I was going to get some gas and stop at Mali Thai Cafe to get some Chicken Pad Thai. Even though I'd take one last look at my living space to make sure I didn't forget anything, I still had a lingering feeling that I'd left something, important stuff. I opened the back of the Jeep and took a gander. Dammit! I had my HH puffer but I could not find my hiking pants! I'm sure they weren't on the floor when I took the last look but where were they? I then recalled, I'd grabbed the 34W and put them back and didn't grab the 32W.

I considered my options: Drive up to Kelso and get a pair from Sportsman's Warehouse. Hit or miss. Stop at the Kuh'l & Birkenstock store in Ridgefield, WA but I knew they didn't carry the Klash. I had to drive all the way back home and get them, fuel is cheaper than another pair of pants. I made the drive to Portland and back to Woodland. I got my Chicked Pad Thai and headed toward Cougar.

In Cougar, I stopped at the Lakeside Country Store to get some money for camping and some snacks for the hike: 3 snack bars (dark chocolate w/ cashews & cherries), cheese, something else. 

Next stop: Climber's Bivouac!

It was pretty packed around the small loop. I thought the recent weather (snow) might have deterred some folks but nope, we're all nuts! I ended up back near the trailhead, across from the loo.

I made my bed in the back of the Jeep and got my Pad Thai to eat and listen to Alan Watts. 

I was feeling reluctant to get up but I had to use the loo. From inside the car, it looked cold but in reality it wasn't bad at all, maybe 60 deg F. I took care of business and started to get ready. Before putting on my pack, I wandered over to the trailhead and filled out an entry in the climbing logbook. At the last minute, I removed a couple of things from my pack to try to lighten the load even just a little. I worried if I had overestimated the weather and recent snow.

Other hikers signed in and headed up the trail. It was time to go! I hit the trail at about 7:15 am. 

The Hike 

Length: 9.06 mi
Elev. gain: 4,498 ft
Moving time: 7h 11m
Avg. pace: 47:32
Total time: 9h 44m 

 

 

 

 

 

 
It took a little while to get used to my pack (weight) and even though it wasn't too cold, I hiked in my 32 Degree puffer. I knew I was sweating underneath but vaguely planned to stop at the tree line. Before the defunct last-chance bathroom and Loowit junction, I stopped to snap of picture looking south.

I was pretty tired at the tree line. I stupidly removed my spare base layer trying to lighten my pack. All I had was one fleece shirt. My puffer was soaked as well. Not a great way to start. I put on the fleece over bare skin and started up the boulders. Here we go!

Fast forward, I turned around I check my progress. and admire the view and being sandwiched between low and high clouds.

It was pretty gray and I wasn't super thrilled by the weather but kept pushing up and onward. I knew a 1/3rd of this climb is a mental game. (1/3rd nutrition, 1/3rd fitness).

This was my first glimpse of the summit/ridge. Actually, I was happy to see that the snow coverage wasn't that bad.

I zoomed in and could see two figures on the hump before the "true summit". This hump is just west of the point that the trail tops out on the Monitor Ridge trail and vertical beach.

I don't have a hard shell. I didn't even bring a proper rain coat. I threw this poncho in my pack as a "just-in-case". Well, I needed it cuz rain began to fall. Not hard but still. I was kind of a pain in the ass with my pack and restricted arm movement. I looked silly but was mostly dry: my fleece-covered arms were still exposed to the rain.

More epic views to the south. There's Mt Hood in the upper left. Also, you can see a fellow climber in red jacket at the edge of the rocks in the center.

Another climber making their way up the boulders.

Mt Jefferson made an appearance in this picture, just west (right) of Hood.

I made sure to enjoy the views along the way. When doing this difficult physical challenge, you can get laser focused (tunnel vision) on getting the top but the WHOLE climb is amazing. The route mostly follows ridge, there were a few times when I hiked up to the edge to gaze toward the 83 road and Mt Adams.

I was surprised when I noticed a person in a pink or peach colored outfit. Then, noticed a second person in black clothing. They were on the Winter Route (Worm Flows!). Nice! (In fact, I met a guy that had also come up via the Winter Route and had passed that couple on his assent. Nice guy, 20s. I wish I was in his shape and level of fitness. Youth! amirite!?

Holy cow. I really wasn't sure if I was going to make it this year. I seem to say this every time! Since climb #2 when I turned around short of the rim, I knew I had to be gentle with myself and not see turning around as a failure. Savvy hikers and climbers know, reaching the summit is optional, getting back to the car is mandatory. Know your limits, know when to turn back. 

I read Andy's trip report from the weekend: only a small group made it to the top and headed down right away due to weather (snow, rain, cold, wind). An MSHI guided climb has aborted their trip lower down.

The low clouds were staying put and I could see people on the rim and the final section of trail. Wow! I made it this far. "I'm gonna make it" I told myself, only partially believing myself. I knew I had to keep the doubts at bay.

I'd reached the weather station, just a couple more bumps to go before the "beach".

I was so thankful to meet this group of three. We chatted along the way and I kinda synced my stops with theirs. In a way, I felt accountable. There was a little bit of pride having mentioned I was an MSHI volunteer. I was my way to get out of my head and stop hearing the little voice trying to get me to give up the goal. Meeting others on the route has been a full-proof.

Fuck ya! I made it. In fact, I did the "count to 20" to break that long slog into little bits. I was 20 steps from the top and still had to rest. 

I was elated to have made it. I knew I still had to get down but also wanted to enjoy the sun that came out and the amazing clouds. I love the clear days I've enjoyed on the rim but the clouds really make the photos so much better.

I didn't snap many photos on the way down. I was focused on ensuring my knees and legs were good. I noticed squirrel checking out the views. There was a crow nearby flying around. I think this little critter was keeping watch and cautious. It didn't seem to pay me much attention. Probably a nest with little kits nearby.

After this section, I encountered some heavy fog and it was darker. A couple other guys were heading down at the same time. We gave each other some tips and helped with route finding. The right way was impossible to see. 

Eventually, we had different ideas of where to climb down and I went left when they went right. I pulled out my phone and checked AllTrails. I needed to go left a bit to stay on track. Well, I overshot by quite a bit.

It's funny to see the actual path I took on the way up and down. Around 6398 ft, I deviated too far to the left (east). I course-corrected pretty quick and found my way to the route. 

My legs and knees were screaming. This is where injuries happen. I took my time. I was glad to be out of the boulders but this section is still difficult. The fog was still heavy at this elevation so I didn't know until I was there that I'd almost made it to the turn to the last set of boulders before the treeline and dirt.

I was so relieved to have made it back to the forest. However, the way the trail is eroded and the roots, I still had some obstacles to overcome before I could relax. I was on auto-pilot and legs felt like noodles. I don't know what I was thinking, just visualizing being back at the car. 

I remember thinking "if I encountered a bear or cougar, I was fucked." LOL.

I finally turned a corner and saw the parking lot. Yes!

9 miles, 4500 feet of EG, 10 hours. Fucking A! 

Hike: Mt St Helens Summit, Cougar, WA

Getting There

From Portland: Take I-5 N for 28 miles to Woodland. Take Exit 21 for WA-503 E to Cougar. Follow Lewis River Road (WA-503) for 30 miles. Continue east for another 3.4 miles past Cougar on Road 90 and take NF-83 for Ape Cave/Climber's Bivouac. Take this road for 3 mile then turn left on FS-81 for 0.4 miles. Turn right onto Road 830 (dirt/gravel) and take that to Climber's Bivouac (2.2 miles).

I was not in the best mood when I left Portland. I'd woken up early for my bi-monthly counseling session then gone back to bed. I didn't wake up until about noon. Feeling stressed by the whole thing. Why did I put this pressure on myself? Deep inside I knew I had to try, heck just a night of camping was better than staying home.

I was going to stop at Mali Thai Cafe to get some Chicken Pad Thai but made a decision to skip it this time. I'd gotten an Asian noodle salad from New Seasons. I wanted to pasta-like food to "carb load". I stopped for gas in Woodland and continued to trailhead.

In Cougar, I stopped at the rest stop for a bio-break, then popped over to the Lakeside Country Store to get some money for camping. I got a Chicken Bake, a couple bottles of water, and 3 snack bars (dark chocolate w/ cashews & cherries). The total was like $17.50.. crap. I still needed a $5 bill. I told the cashier that I needed to buy more stuff but she said she could break my $20 bill. I told her I appreciated it and thanked her as I left the store.

Next stop: Climber's Bivouac!

My "usual" spots were already taken as I drove the small loop. I ended up back near the trailhead, across from the loo.

I made my bed in the back of the Jeep and got my book out to read. I overheard several hikers who had seemingly chaperoned another hiker back to camp. They'd split up from their group and had gotten lost in the twilight, and lost their phone. Just 5 or 10 minutes later the rest of their group made it back. They were relieved to find their friend. One person apologized for bailing on the lone friend. Not great that they split up but also the friend shouldn't have waited for their group to summit and return down the route to reunite. I thought about introducing myself as an MSHI volunteer and offer to post a note on the FB page about the missing phone. I decided it was none of my business. They were going to post a note to the sign-in board.

When it got cooler, I closed up the back and crawled into my cocoon, hoping I could get some sleep. My mattress pad had already deflated a bit. Not sure why. I blew more air in it and tried to get comfortable. (I really need to get a bigger air mattress for the Jeep.)

I didn't sleep that well but good enough. I woke several times during the night. Around 5-6am, I noticed some cars arriving. I noticed a car parked right behind me even though there were plenty of open spot across the way; it annoyed me a bit. (This happened at WCF: I was the first car in the lot with 100 spots and the next car to arrive parked right next to me!)

I was feeling reluctant to get up but I had to use the loo. From inside the car, it looked cold but in reality it wasn't bad at all, maybe 60 deg F. I took care of business and started to get ready. I packed my gear, made a sandwich, ate some pasta salad and drank 1/2 a Guayakí tea. Before putting on my pack, I wandered over to the trailhead and filled out an entry in the climbing logbook.

I could see a golden light hitting the tops of the trees. It was time to go! I hit the trail at about 7:15 am. 

The Hike

Distance: 8.15 miles
Elevation Gain: 4540 feet
Started: 7:00 am
Ended: 3:00 pm
Duration: 8 hours 
    • 4h 15m ascent
    • 30m on the rim
    • 3h 15m descent 

 

 

The Forest 

This first picture was taken at around 7:30 am, about 30min into my hike. It didn't seem to take long at all to reach this point. I was feeling okay but still a bit unsure if I was ready to complete the hike all the way to the top. I was already giving myself permission to only part of the way. However, I noted that I had already passed a couple of groups of hikers that had started before me. 

I tried to make a point of enjoying the journey and not solely focusing on the goal.

The Boulders

I made quick work of the first set of boulders and started heading up the ridgeline. A couple passed me and disappeared in front of me. I told myself I didn't need to match anyone's pace, I was only my own time, and I had plenty.

In reviewing my photos, I didn't take that many pics on the route, just trying to do my best through the obstacles. To my (relative) surprise, I wasn't as winded as I'd been on the Herman Creek hike. 

I tried to keep my focus on the next lodge pole and picking good intervals to rest, hydrate, and have a snack to keep my energy up. 

The Vertical Beach

This is the last section of the hike and I was glad to be here. No more climbing up and over boulders. Just the loose pumice sand. A faint trail zigzagged up the mountain towards the rim. I could see people on the route and along the top. I could even make out colors, of clothing, of backpacks.

I was in the good spirits. I briefly recalled where I'd turned back in 2022 but knew I was gonna make it this time (again, for the 3rd time). Some hikers that were faster than me cruised by but it didn't bother me in the least. I was going as fast as I could, as I needed to. I remembered myself that everyone that I could see in the distance had been where I was now.

My legs felt good, my oxygen was good, my attitude was good. The only thing that was a bit challenging was the wind. By this time in the hike, I'd donned my goggles. In fact, much lower down, I thought the grit that was getting into my eye was going to be a bigger issue.

Somewhere along the way I started counting my paces: sets of 20 steps and a short break. After 3 sets, I would drink some water. I was out of liquid electrolytes but still had chewables in my pocket. 

The people ahead of me and on the rim were getting bigger. I estimated I had 20 more sets of 20 to go. After 10 sets, I took another rest and water break, no more than 30 or 40 secs. I mumbled to myself, "I'm gonna make it, I'm gonna make it!".

This time, I didn't stop. I powered through 5 sets of 20.

The Summit

In the last set, I counted to myself. "17-18-19-20"... viola! I was peering out over the crater, Spirit Lake, and Mt Rainier in the distance. Fach ya! "You did it, Larry" I reminded myself. I could barely see Coldwater Peak but everything west of there was hidden behind a huge wall of dust. The wind I'd been experiencing on the climb had been coming from the east. It was difficult to determine was direction the wind was blowing at the opening of the crater to stir up so much ash/pumice. The Glacier Overlook was hard to find but I could just make it out below. 

I thought briefly about traversing to the "true summit" as I had done that first year in 2021 but the wind was blowing too hard. It didn't feel safe even though I could see two climbers making there way back to where I was. I'd told myself I'd revisit the "true summit" this year but you have to trust your instinct. Another climber that I'd chatted with on the way echoed my concern.  

I only stayed on the summit for about 30 mins. I wasn't even hungry for my sandwich. I do regret not lingering for longer. I mean, I did go all that way. Way down below and in the days leading up to this hike I'd contemplated that I should enjoy this hike to the fullest as there were no guarantees I'd be able to make the journey again, possibly due to health reasons. However, standing the edge, I assured myself, I'll go to the "true summit" next time. I was sure there would be a "next time". 

The Descent

Again, I didn't take many photos on the way down. I do remember seeing a few people from one of the groups I'd seen on the trail below the treeline, I'd take a few group photos and one person had asked about my InReach.

Additionally, on the vertical beach, I passed a guy hiking up that was a fellow MSHI volunteer, a Climbing Steward, on a personal climb. I'd spotted the circular patch on his pack and introduced myself. Sadly, as I'm bad with names with sufficient repetition, I don't remember who it was.

This time, I opted to stay closer to the marked trail instead of take my "express" route on the other side of the ravine. I was getting tired but still had a lot of rocks to get over, through.

Finally, I reached the turn in the trail and final descent to the wooded part of the hike. I was so excited to reach dirt again. Under my breath I repeated, "I'm almost there, I'm almost there." I continued down cautiously but determined. I didn't want to slip this close to the forest, non-technical part of my descent.

I made it! I high-fived the "Permit Require above this elevation" sign.

Back Through The Forest

The last section of the journey is easier but no cake walk. My legs were aching and I had to step down over numerous roots that didn't seem so back in the other direction, up. It was hard on the knees and I used my hiking poles as best I could to cushion the deep steps down.

This part of the hike seemed to go forever even though it was the same 2 miles that seemed to be over quickly in the morning as I was getting started. Funny how perception changes, the ol' Summit Fever.

I was longing to reach the end. I made it to the top and back down without incident. I was glad I didn't have those Scarpas mountaineering boots that I rented last year.

The End 

I remember being so excited to reach the sign near the trailhead that said "Permits required". I was even more excited to see the WAG bag disposal (LOL). I had grabbed a bear horn that has been hanging off a branch about 1/4 mile up. I finally reached the trailhead and quietly whispered to myself "I made it!".

I hung the bear horn in the kiosk, leafed through the log book to find my entry and scribble my return time.

The other two cars that had been parked ahead and behind me were gone. I took my time to remove my boots and wet sun shirt. I shoved my bedding out of the way and tossed my pack in the back of the Jeep. I changed into my street clothes.

Driving down the bumpy road, my next goal was to reach pavement again.

The drive back to Woodland was routine like after all those trail work parties. I was extra worn out but satisfied with my accomplishment.

What's next? Mt Adams, South Sister? TBD.