Getting There
From Portland: Take I-5 N for 28 miles to Woodland. Take Exit 21 for WA-503 E to Cougar. Follow Lewis River Road (WA-503) for 30 miles. Continue east for another 3.4 miles past Cougar on Road 90 and take NF-83 for Ape Cave/Climber's Bivouac. Take this road for 3 mile then turn left on FS-81 for 0.4 miles. Turn right onto Road 830 (dirt/gravel) and take that to Climber's Bivouac (2.2 miles).
I did make a couple of stops in Woodland. First, I went to Grocery Outlet to get a few more things that I forgot to get at New Seasons: bananas, plus I read that peanut butter and whole grain bread was a good food for sustained energy. I just ate the bananas whole but might be good to put in the sandwich as well as some honey.
I remember in the past, I've eaten a big slice of vegetarian lasagna but didn't want to buy a camp stove to heat it up. When I've stayed in Woodland, I've gotten to-go food from Mali Thai Cafe. I always remember it was piping hot and took awhile to cool down enough to eat. I thought it'd be a perfect noodle dish + protein (chicken) and would still be warm when I reached the Climber's Bivouac.
Oops. I forgot to get Gatorade at either of my grocery trips so I stopped at the Lakeside Country Store. I grabbed two bottles of sugar-free Gatorade and one more Clif bar to throw in my pack.
On the road up camp, I passed Ranger Trevor but he didn't recognize me in my car and not in MSHI colors.
I circled the lot once and found a good level spot. It was where I camped in 2022, the year I didn't reach the summit. No bad omen. LOL. It was adjacent to the pit toilet. I sent my mom a "I"m here message" on the Garmin but realized I had a cell signal: not sure if the iPhone 15+ has a better radio or cell coverage is better at camp. I noticed my coordinates were missing from the message (again!) so I sent a text message. I set up my cocoon in the back of the Jeep and ate my dinner. Soon it was dark and I got situated inside.
I slept pretty well but remember some cars that drove through the parking lot with high beams on (argh!) and one person that sat there with headlights on and foot on the brake. I was mildly annoyed thinking this person was idling and spewing exhaust just sitting there in the dark at 11pm. I realize I could tell if the engine was on and the tail lights really didn't illuminate my situation.
I set an alarm for a 6am departure but when the time came, I was slow to get out of my sleeping bag. I eventually got up and started getting ready. I hit the trail at 6:40a.
The Hike
Elev. gain: 4,531 ft
Moving time: 6:07:45
Avg pace: 41:47
Calories: 3,722
Total time: 9:23:49
Backstory
I've been down lately as the summer is coming to a close. There were some high points (volunteering with MSHI & mentoring new folks, working with WTA on trail work and log outs, getting my vest for 25 days of service) but there were some low points sprinkled in (dropping a large rock on my chest, a bout with vertigo and Benign paroxysmal positional vertigo (BPPV)). I also wasn't sure where I would be after a year living off Alberta but this time has buzzed by quickly.
Last time I did this climb (Sep 6, 2023), it was just a few days before I closed on my house on N Argyle (sale). The summer of 2023 was very difficult and this hike was a triumph of will, perseverance, and fitness, somewhat in spite of Rheumatoid arthritis. The previous year I had come up short on my climb, having turned back on the last section of trail. I was mentally beating myself and hadn't had the right foods/fuel.
I thought about Fred Beckey and how he continued to climb until he couldn't. Would I make it this time? I've always told myself that I was richer from my experiences and could find solace in those memories when the time came when I can no longer hike. I'm not sure I believe it but I also plan to drag my ass to the trail in whatever condition I'm in. Maybe I won't be able to tackle Hamilton Mtn or MSH but I'll put up with the hassle and discomfort to be in nature, even if the risk for self-rescue is higher. I remember seeing a guy with cerebral palsy that was out on the trail with his dog. I saw my future self in this person.
This year, I was determined to make it again despite some self-doubt. Also, I've been having R foot issues that threatened to thwart my attempt this year. I rented some Scarpa boots from the Mountain Shop on NE Sandy Blvd so my foot didn't flex and cause pain.
The Wooded Section
I got on the trail at 6:40a, still dressed for the cool weather. I imagined reaching the summit and convincing my brain that I could do it again. The power of the mind is potent. I took moments to appreciate where I was and how fortunate I am to be able to visit this place. The day was shaping up to be incredible with the weather and it made me smile.
Onto the Rocks
At the treeline at 4800', I met a guy that was resting on a rock. I said something about the clear skies. He'd just moved to Oregon and was looking forward to his climb. I mentioned some other nearby trails and wished him a successful summit.
Up on the first rock field, I'd stopped to shed a layer and adjust my pack when he caught up. A cloud had blown in front of the sun. I told him, "crap, I hope I didn't jinx the weather". As I continued up I waved and said "one step at a time, be safe".
Even though I had my sights on the summit, I set short term goals. The counting system worked well and setting milestones like a big rock or a lodge pole for my next break or water stop helped me keep my pace and stamina. I tried not to look towards the top too much because it seemed so far away. I was the tortoise in the The Tortoise and the Hare. I had plenty of time and no where to be.
The Vertical Beach
I realize the "beach" is a bit higher up but I knew I'd successfully made it passed the series of rocky steps and actual climbing. From here to the top is just a steep walk on loose pumice sand. I didn't take any photos of the vertical beach but it is deeper than this lower part. Two steps up, one step back. Hiking poles are key for minimizing backslide. I did have to pinch myself. I was feeling good physically, emotionally, and it is such an incredible place.
The Summit
Hell yeah!! I made it. I counted 10 or 12 sets of 20 on the last section. A couple was stopped: the guy was sitting and massaging his leg, staving off a cramp. I stopped and chatted with his partner. She recognized my MSHI patch and commented. It was a good diversion for me. I was outside of my head. I said I'd see them at the top and kept pushing.
When I finally took those last steps to the ridge and saw Spirit Lake, I was so fucking happy. This was my third time to the summit. I was really here. I felt pretty good. There wasn't any wind, the views were amazing in all directions. I could see Mt Rainier (Tahoma), Mt Adams (Klicktat/Pahto), Mt Hood, Mt Jefferson (Seekseekqua), and possibly Mt Washington.
I saw the couple I'd seen on the trail. We chatted some more and I told them I didn't want to leave but knew there was still a 3hr hike back down to the car. I mentioned the trail on the west side of the ravine below the boulders was a bit faster than weaving through the rocks. (I realize there is a similar trail between the rocky trail and my "shortcut"; maybe next time!).
I kept pace with several groups of hikers on their descent. One person asked me the best route but they were doing just fine and pulled ahead after a short while. I mentioned to one about not wearing gloves for the scramble down the boulders. I didn't mean it anyway other than I know my hands would have been shredded without my gloves.
Here is a shot of my alternate path. Maybe folks have used this route as evidenced by the boot prints in the soft pumice sand. It's not so much a shortcut as a path that has fewer obstacles to weave around. From the looks of it, there is a similar path on the other side of the ravine, below the lodge pole route I'd take up.
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| The "Shortcut" |
Back to the woods
The last 2.5 miles was tough. My legs were so sore and my feet were complaining loudly. Each step was painful but I knew I was almost back to the forest trail which offered a softer dirt trail and shade. I'd left my sunscreen in the car so I knew my face was sun burnt.
A family of four had passed me on the rocks. I chatted with one guy that was waiting for his dad. We agreed it was great to be back to the trees. I wished him well and waved to the mom and the other son as they waited.
I tried my best to ignore the pain in my feet. I cursed at the check steps and exposed roots on my way down. The gift that keeps giving. LOL. I purposefully didn't check my map. I knew the trailhead would appear around the last turn eventually.
When I saw the sign about needing a permit after 4800', I was so relieved. I'd made it! Fuck yea!
Note of caution
Even though I consider this hike a resounding success, I have to acknowledge the three times that could have been terrible. Twice, I'd almost lost my footing on the boulders which could have resulted in a nasty fall and injury. I also had a close call on the shortcut. It's a reminder that despite it's popularity, accidents can happen, usually on the descent when you're tired and getting a little sloppy. In the end, they were close calls and not incidents that caused injury and/or required assistance. Whew. I wouldn't change a thing.
What's next?
Maybe Mt Adams, South Sister, a trip to Muir Camp, somewhere else. I think it's time to switch it up. I've done MSH 4 times with 3 summits. I want to bag some other peaks... while I can.
