Getting There

Take I-5 from Portland to Woodland. It's 23mi from Kenton to the exit 21.

There are a few gas stations to fill up here.

It's 46.2 miles to the Ape Canyon trailhead and it takes about 1.1 hrs (if you're going the speed limit ;). From WA-503 (out of Woodland) take this passed Merwin, Yale Lakes to the turn off for the following: Ape Caves, June Lake, Climber's Bivouac, Ape & Lava Canyons.

It's 11.2mi (25min) to the trailhead. The clear cut areas was really sad to see. :(

The small parking lot was full and there were many cars parked along the road. I drove the first place I could pull off the road but it passed a spot so I did a u-turn. Just as I got back to the trailhead a truck was pulling out. I grabbed that spot. I put my window shade up, geared up and set out.

The Hike

Length: 15.37 miles
Elevation Gain: 3,104 feet
Type: Out and Back

Last time I did this hike was Nov 1st, 2020. I'd tried to go to the Climber's Bivouac and do the Ptarmigan Trail to the MSH Rim. It was the first day that no permit was required. Anyway, I barely made it to Pumice Butte and had troubles with my knees (IT band was tight).

The trail stays in the old forest for the first 4.5 miles. I passed though sections where I was getting eaten alive by flies, mosquitos, etc. I stopped to put on bug spray and ended up getting some in my mouth (yuck). It helped a bit but the best option was to keep moving, quickly!

I had a couple mountain bikers pass me and a handful of hikers on their descent.

When I got to Pumice Butte was felt really good. It was nice to emerge from the darkness of the canopy, see some rugged terrain, and get back to the spot where I turned around last Nov.

Several people were camping at the Butte. I temporarily lost the trail and walked into someone camp. She looked at me but didn't say anything. I just blurted "sorry, wrong turn". Because of the Trail Run, there were little colored ribbons marking the route.

There was guy hiking ahead of me. Somewhere on the Plains of Abraham he stopped to take a photo or drink some water and I passed him.

From there, I was in unknown territory. I was flat and easy. I'd seen a sign for the Loowit Trail so I figured I go there, then decide.

A runner came by and asked if I had any extra water. I had been sipping my supply so I had plenty: 32oz and another full 16oz bottle. I gave him about 2/3rd of that (until his little bottle was full). I thought well, that determines the rest of my day (or so I thought).

When I got to the Loowit Trail junction, I set a new goal: Hike to the foot of the mountain. (The trail sign said 4 miles to Windy Ridge and that was a bit further than I wanted to go.)

About 2/3rd of the way I crossed a fast moving creek/stream. Woohoo!! fresh water. I could see some snow about 100 yds away. I pulled out my empty bottles and filled up. I knew was good water, safe to drink w/o purifying). It tasted so good.

When I got to the base of the mountain, I saw some hikers climbing down a steep path. Holy cow! Until I saw them, I was expecting to head back from here. I thought "I wonder what the top of this pass looks like??").

The 2nd group was a family of four, two parents and two younger girls (7-8 y.o.). Well, if they could do it, so could I.

The view from Windy Pass was amazing. I could see Harry's Ridge, Mt Margaret, Coldwater Peak, and even the north tip of Spirit Lake.

After consulting the map, I saw there was a shorter loop that would link back to the place where I detoured onto the Loowit Trail without going all the way to Windy Ridge.

I couple passed me on the trail while I was enjoying the view and trying to decide what to do. I said "fuck it" and started the trek down.

They'd stopped for lunch and I kept going. In less than 10min I got cold feet. I wasn't up for this extra loop. I turned around while I was still close to Windy Pass and familiar terrain.

The ascent back up the steep trail wasn't bad at all, thanks to my recent training and exercise.

I made it through the pass and back on to the Plains. I filled my bottles up again at the creek. What a great thing. Access to water has been a consideration when I've been researching the Ape Canyon - Smith Creek - Lava Canyon loop.

When the finally snow melts, that amazing creek will dry up so maybe that loop is best done in early summer.

I walked back to Pumice Butte and had two more runners pass by.

Just before my descent through the old forest, I stopped in the shade and enjoyed the view for 15-20mins.

The bugs weren't as bad on the way down but the 4.5 trip felt long. I was glad to get to the part of the trail that had the views of Ape Canyon.

When I got to the trailhead, most of the cars were gone from there and along the road.

It's always such a relief to take off my hiking boots at the end of a vigorous hike.

This is my longest hike to date. However, I only had 20 mins of peak time (Fitbit). On the Coldwater Peak trek, I had around 240 mins of peak time. Much more exercise, calorie burn.