Hike: Black Crater, Old McKenzie Hwy, Blue River, OR

Getting There

From Bend, take US-20 to Sisters, OR. The turnoff is a little convoluted by look for signs to Old McKenzie Hwy (OR-242). Follow this west for about 11 miles. The Black Crater Trailhead is on the left.

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So this is my second time at this trailhead. Last year, I stopped here on my way home but ended up bailing on this hike and finding another trail, Blue Pool. 

The weather had not been summer-like as I'd enjoyed the past couple of years. My intended climb of Broken Top was thwarted by any early snow at Green Lakes. Then, I had a series of complications on the way there: InReach was not charged and I had to find a cable at a gas station. I also had some tummy issues and found the restrooms at Dee Wright were closed for the season.

I'd stayed an extra night since the Three Sisters area was shrouded in storm clouds all day, as I could see from Smith Rock. The weather was perfect, clear & sunny. I did take my time getting there but the drive from Bend to Sisters was great. I stopped to fuel up and grab some electrolytes and snacks.

I drove up the main drag and looked for a coffee shop. I caught a glimpse of Sisters Coffee a block south. I found a parking spot right in front and got out. The line was crazy long, spilling outside onto the porch. I saw the line split into two braids. I didn't need coffee but it sounded good. I capitulated and left. I almost gave up but pulled out my phone and found another spot nearby, a drive thru.

Soon I was off to the trailhead. I was still unsure of the conditions on the ground. The sky was clear but I wondered if the route was covered in snow. I had the gear but it was still apprehensive. I said to myself that I'd go if there was at least one car in the parking lot. The year before I was the only one. 

To my surprise, the parking lot was nearly full of cars. This filled me with confidence. I got my stuff together and watched another group start up the trail. I followed them after I filled out my self-issued permit. 

The Hike

Length: 7.32mi

Elev. gain: 2,329ft

Moving time: 3h 8m

Avg. pace: 25:37

Calories: 1,653

Total time: 3h 48m

 

 

 

 

 

 

The first part of the hike is in a burn area, gray-white trunks of dead trees. The views of Belknap and Mt Washington were there through the lattice of limbless trees. When I considered this hike, I imagined it was a corkscrew up a cinder cone. I was wrong. 

After the section through the burnt forest, the trail curves closers to the main edifice of the mountain-crater and into live trees. The trail climbs steeply through this area.

There were several hikers coming down the trail and I seemed to be the only one going up. 

I remember getting a "Storm Warning" on my watch and seeing a big, white cloud behind the crater. The sky on "my" side was great but I was worried, the summit was going to be cloud-covered, the storm drifting north from TSW.

It wasn't a deterrent and I tried to hurry my pace a little. 

The trail winds around to the east side of the mountain-crater. The trees thin out a bit, allowing views through them and to the surrounding forest and possibly even Tam McArthur Rim, and lots of sunlight.

There are a few switchbacks and I thought I could see the ridge where I was headed. I passed a few more people on this upper section, all leaving. Would I have the summit-crater to myself? I was glad to have seen other hikers but relished the idea of having some solitude. What a way to end a great week of hiking and exploring Central Oregon, some new hikes/travels and a couple I'd tackled before. 

I found little patches of snow in the trees and shade but there were not huge fields to traverse. Apparently, this high point was largely spared from the storm the day before. Whew!

I finally reached the final approach. There was nothing but blue sky above. I still wasn't sure if there would be a ridge to walk along or what. I got to a lava bed and the trail crossed to the actual crater. Even if there had been other people, there was ample room to spread out for nearly 360 deg views.

 

The actual crater was awesome a little amphitheater of rock. I could see the Belknap Crater, Mt Washington, Three Finger Jack, Mt Jefferson to the west/northwest. To the southeast were Three Sisters (North, Middle, and South somewhere behind the cloud cover). The grove of dead trees on the summit provided an interesting foreground and perspective.

Back at the crater, I ditched my pack and climbed around a little and felt more comfortable than the day before at Smith Rock. It restored a little confidence in my rock climbing ability, which is very limited. I really need to get some formal training as I have always been pretty competent scrambling around. 

 

I thought about having lunch but also considered my journey home. I felt accomplished to have completed this last hike. It was one of my main objectives and had nearly had to skip it due to weather. I was supposed to have been "saving" my legs earlier in the week but ended up hiking every day except my first travel day from Portland. I was pleased that my long hike at Smith Rock had not become a hindrance for this hike.

 

 

I really enjoyed my descent. I passed a few more hikers on their way up. I made sure to pause and enjoy the views. Why put forth all this effort and not stop to smell the wildflowers?

Back at the car, I changed into my travel clothes and had part of my sandwich. The coffee cake was so good as well. It was time to start heading home.

Here are a couple photos of Black Crater from the Dee Wright Observatory. 

 

Hike: Smith Rock State Park, Terrebonne, OR

Getting There

From Bend, take Hwy 97 northbound to Terrebonne, about 21 miles. Take a right on Smith Rock Way (east) and follow to the parking lot, about 2.5 miles.

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My day had started elsewhere. I had a hiking permit for South Sister via Devil's Lake. I wasn't summiting but just wanted to scope out the lower part of the climb from the TH to Moraine Lake. Unfortunately, the weather was terrible. I still drove out the Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway, past Bachelor, past Todd Lake, past Green Lakes. Actually, I'd been there two days before.

I found a spot in the parking lot and was surprised how many cars were there. Terrible time to climb and maybe some where camping part way up. I knew right away, this hike wasn't gonna happen: cold, rainy, no views. It didn't seem like things would clear anytime soon. (I laughed that the storm would clear as soon as I got back to Bend.).

I bailed Devil's Lake and ventured up to the Todd Lake TH. It was busy with cars but the weather still sucked. I made the call to ditch this whole place and hike at Smith Rock. The weather was great and I could get some decent mileage and EG. 

I got back to Bend and made my way up to Terrebonne and on to the park.

I parked on the road instead of pulling into the lot I used a couple years ago, then go geared up.

The Hike

Length: 7.36mi
Elev. gain: 1,857ft
Moving time: 3h 17m
Avg. pace: 26:47
Calories: 1,738
Total time: 4h 55m

 

 

 

 

 

 

In usual fashion, I felt like I had more gear than necessary compared to the other hikers and sightseers heading down into the canyon.

I made it down to the river and turned right. I could start my ascent right away on the Misery Ridge trail or try the counterclockwise route by heading up the Burma Road. I'd already done the clockwise route last time so why not switch it up.

Actually, I wasn't sure I wanted to do the big loop. I started up the Misery Ridge trail and planned on doing the short loop.

I made good progress up to the top of the ridge. It was a bit taxing but not terrible given the shape I was in and recent hiking. I was drenched so I changed shirts.. oops. I forgot another base layer and just had long johns. LOL. I put my fleece over bare skin. Dammit!

I did some exploration off-trail and got some shots. The last time I'd hiked here I did more off-trail but noticed a large group of people where I wanted to go. I suspected they were rock climbing. Actually, there were a lot of slack lines rigged up around the park.

When I got near Monkey Face, there were a bunch of climbers. Honestly, seeing those people made my stomach drop. There was rigging and ropes but someone had to climb without the safety to get set up. 

I descended on the trail and thought about my next plan. When I got to the trail junction, I stopped. I could do the short loop or commit to the longer route back to the Summit Trail and Burma Road. I wanted a challenge. I also got my damp base layer and ditched the fleece. I knew the shirt would dry in this warm air.

I remember hearing a leaf blower across from Monkey Face and got annoyed. Even out here, it's sometimes difficult to escape the intrusion of sounds like this. I flipped some unseen person the bird,.. several times.

I knew I had plenty of daylight and really only needed to reach the top of the Burma Road before sunset. You can see the trailhead from there.

The hike is not that difficult. It climbs steadily but it's only a couple miles. I recall my last hike here and wondering how far it was because I hadn't scoped it out. This time I was traveling over (somewhat) known territory.

I did a side quest and found several slack lines attached to rocks on this side of the park. I thought I heard voices but never actually saw anyone. Guessing a group had set everything up for subsequent days of climbing and slacklining. 

When I got near the top of the Burma Road, I was a little sad, I didn't want the hike to be over yet. I linged for a bit and took off my pack and had a snack. The sun was amazing. I could still see that Three Sisters was still getting hammered by the storm. I knew I'd made the right decision to bail on the Moraine Lake, it never magically cleared up.

Before heading down the Burma Road segment, I considered the effort to reach the Eagle's Nest viewpoint. The "Scar" is incredibly steep, not sure I had the time and energy to go up. I still wanted to preserve my legs for the last hike at Black Crater.

In hindsight, the best option would be to arrive at Smith Rock earlier in the day so time wasn't an issue and use the Gray Butte Connector Trail and maybe come down The Scar. That's for another time and good reason to return for a third hike.

When I got near the top of the Burma Road, I was a little sad, I didn't want the hike to be over yet. I linged for a bit and took off my pack and had a snack. The sun was amazing. I could still see that Three Sisters was still getting hammered by the storm. I knew I'd made the right decision to bail on the Moraine Lake, it never magically cleared up.

Before heading down the Burma Road segment, I considered the effort to reach the Eagle's Nest viewpoint. The "Scar" is incredibly steep, not sure I had the time and energy to go up. I still wanted to preserve my legs for the last hike at Black Crater.

In hindsight, the best option would be to arrive at Smith Rock earlier in the day so time wasn't an issue and use the Gray Butte Connector Trail and maybe come down The Scar. That's for another time and good reason to return for a third hike. 

I strolled down the Burma Road and reflected on my trip. Paradoxically, it didn't got as planned even though I was winging it every day. I had some goals but no itinerary. The weather had interrupted my last-minute plans but it worked out. I really tried to not repeat any hikes or destination but it happened anyway. In previous years, the wildfire smoke had made me change plans. Shit happens. I am lucky to be able to spend 5-6 days in Bend every year.

When I got down to the river, I heard some voices. They where likely the group that had rigged the slack lines overhead. I saw them off-trail but didn't stop to say anything. I scooted along at my usual pace.

Once back near the start of the Misery Ridge trail, I saw a group of three staring way up. I scanned the sheer rock face and saw one climber about 20 feet. It conjured a thought about the Eiger since I'd read Joe Simpson's "The Beckoning Silence" and had started Heinrich Harrer's "The White Spider". Then, I looked up even higher and saw a person on a slack line hundreds of feet up. They were about 2/3rd to the other side when he fell. OMfG. Of course, they had a safety rope attached to the slack line. It was amazing to see this person get back on the rope. I can't imagine the pressures and facing fears. What a place to "practice". I almost couldn't watch, what if the safety measures failed?

I crossed the bridge and took the long route. It offered view perspectives of the southwest part of the park. I'd hiked down there last time but I was ready to get back to the car. The light was fading fast. The park is closed at dusk but I'm not actually means. There were certainly a lot of folks still on the rock and they'd certainly be descending in darkness with headlamps.

I spied three more slack lines and tiny figures trying to get across without falling. Falling seems inevitable, knowing how to get back on the line is the skill. (Like a kayak where you have to know how to right yourself: kayak roll. Sounds like the name of a sushi dish!).

Back at the car, I got out of my boots and had a snack. I took a few more pictures before the sun slid behind the rocks.