 |
| View from Pumice Butte near Ape Canyon/Loowit Trail junction |
Getting There
It's 28 miles from Woodland to the Cougar. There are a couple of gas stations here. Continue east on SR-503 which becomes Rd 90 for 9.5 miles to Ape Cave. Looks for the sign to Ape Caves, June Lake, Climber's Bivouac, Ape Canyon & Lava Canyon which is Rd 83. It's 0.3 miles to Trail of Two Forests and 0.7 miles to Ape Cave.Ape Canyon and Lave Canyon are 10 miles north at the 83/90 junction. The trailhead is at the end of Rd 8300 on the southeast side of Mt St Helens.
---
This hike was one of my stops for my 2nd solo outing as Hiking Steward for Mt St Helens Institute. The forecast of triple digit temperatures had me nervous. I wasn't sure if I was even going to hike and planned on just visiting the trailheads and other points of interest to interact with visitors.
After a short stop at Trail of Two Forests at 9:30a, I noticed the thermometer was still in the 80s and the peak temps weren't supposed to hit until 2p. I figured I had time to rove the Ape Canyon Trail and be headed back down in time. Then, I could stop at Ape Cave and cool down underground.
When I arrived at the trailhead, there were only two cars in the lot. The forecast had kept people away.
As I was getting ready, 6 mtn bikers who'd parked at Lava Canyon rode by and up the trail. I packed plenty of water (over 6L) to give to visitors, plus two bottles of Gatorade and another two bottles of water I had from the cabin. This was in addition to my own water supply and electrolytes. It was heavy but I was glad to be prepared to intervene if need be. The last time I was out on this trail I encountered a few people that seemed to not have enough water.
I put on my pack and grabbed my radio and started up the trail.The Hike
Elevation Gain: 1,868 ft
As soon as I left the asphalt parking lot and was in the trees, I could feel the temperature drop. There was a slight breeze. It took a bit got get used to the extra weight and made sure my hip belt was tight to minimize the strain on my shoulders.
About a mile up the trail, I passed the first pair of hikers that were finishing their outing. One person hardly made eye contact when I introduced myself so I shifted my attention to the other person. I asked if they wanted some extra water but they declined and hurried by.
A short while later, a second pair of hikers came down the trail. I introduced myself and we made comments about the heat. I asked if they wanted some water but they also declined.
That was it for the two cars in the parking lot. I marched onward and upward.
I kept drinking electrolyte powered water and felt really good and energized.
Eventually, I caught up with three of the 6 mtn bikers, all teenagers. They all seemed well equipped with Gatorade and one had an emergency transponder like the InReach. They was off their bikes walking slowly. They stopped to let me pass.
A bit further up two more bikers were stopped to wait for their buddies to catch up and beyond that, a guy, the adult in the group, was stopped.
We leap-frogged up the trail several times. When Mt Adams and Mt Rainier were in view, I pointed them out to the two lead bikers.
At one point, I had a nice longer conversation with adult. They were visiting from Seattle and was appreciative of my volunteer presence on the trail and within the monument.
At one point, when they was stopped to wait for the boys in the rear of the group, I zoomed past at a good pace. When I'd started, I wasn't sure if I'd reach the top of the trail but I could see the monitoring equipment and it motivated me to complete the route.
I walked up the Loowit Trail junction and took off my pack. I found a large tree which provide ample shade. It was great to take off the weight I was carrying. I ate an apple and refilled my water bottle.
The six bikers finally arrived and celebrated their arrival with a cheer. I saw them from 100 yards away as they sought some shade off the Loowit Trail. I waved and started my descent.
It was good to be out of direct sun and back in the trees. It must have been in the high-80s or lower 90s. A nice breeze was refreshing.
I stopped to check out my new favorite plants: Ghost Pipe and Pinesap, both do not contain chlorophyll; they get their food through parasitism upon fungi rather than photosynthesis. The Ghost Pipe looks a bit creepy and looks like zombie fingers poking out of the ground.
I also saw a plant that had leaves reminding me of duck's feet called Sweet After Death!
 |
| Ghost Pipe (Monotropa uniflora L.) |
 |
| Ghost Pipe (Monotropa uniflora L.) |
 |
| Pinesap (Monotropa hypopitys L.) |
 |
| Sweet After Death (Achlys triphylla DC.) |
I finished my hike and found an empty parking lot besides my own car. Thankfully, it was in the shade. I was kind of surprised that the bikers had not passed me on the way down. I hoped they hadn't had a mishap but thought if there was some kind of emergency, the chaperone would have sent two scouts to find me for assistance.
I got out my camp chair and sat in the shade nonchalantly. Soon after all 6 bikers emerged from the trail.
We chatted some more about the cooler-than-expected temperatures and a successful outing.
The rest of my rove
I stopped at the Lahar Viewpoint and talked to several visitors. I still wanted to stop at Ape Cave to explore the lower passage. I'd read in the previous day's report that the gift shop had closed early so I hoped I could still make it.
The parking lot was about 1/2 full and the store was indeed closed. There weren't any USFS people either. I was the only "official" presence. I said hello to people but didn't do my usual interpretation. Most everyone was focused on the lava tube and not paying much attention to me despite my obvious red Volunteer shirt and red MSHI hat.
I descended into the cave and hike to the end of the lower passed. It was difficult to interact and identify myself but I didnt' chat with a few people. One person complained about other hikers yelling in the cave. I just said some folks just like the reverb.
Another person asked when the gate was closed but I assured them that they wouldn't close it if cars were still in the lot. Actually, I didn't know if the gate is even closed during the summer.
I gave my "out of service" call to radio dispatch and disassembled the radio (removed the battery and antenna).
Funny Story
As I was getting ready to drive back home, I realized I could find my phone. I remember noticing I'd cracked the screen on my hike and set it down somewhere. I couldn't imagine how I could have lost it between the trailhead and the Ape Cave parking lot.
I searched everywhere; under the seats, in the seat pockets, through all my gear in the back seat and cargo area. Nothing. I was dismayed and confused. "How????". Besides losing my phone, I'd lose all my photos from the last two days. <sad face>. I drove the 9 miles feeling like it was sour end to a spectacular two days.
My only option was to retrace my steps and hope for a miracle. Maybe I'd set it on the bumper at the trailhead and it had fallen off. It was highly unlikely anyone had driven in the parking lot after me so there was a glimmer of hope.
To cover my tracks, I first stopped at the Lahar Viewpoint but there were no cars and no phone on the ground.
I drove the rest of the way to the Ape Canyon parking lot. I hit a bump and heard a noise between the steering wheel and the gauges.
My phone!!!!
Holy cow. I laughed quietly in relief. I didn't remember if falling there earlier but all was well. I had my phone and photos. Whew!!!!!
I put on some music and drank a mate drink. So thankful and happy. Good things do happen.
