Hike: Hamilton Mountain, N Bonneville, WA

Getting There

Just after Doetsch Ranch you'll see the Ranger Station on the north side of the road just before the Beacon Rock parking lot, then another road across from the bathrooms. The road winds up the hill for a bit.
For a beautiful day, I was happy to find a few open spots by the bathroom.

It was early afternoon and the weather was a bit overcast but the forecast showed the skies would clear for several hours in the mid to late afternoon.

The Hike

Length: 7.83 mi
Elev. gain: 2,310 ft
Moving time: 3:40:33
Avg pace: 28:09
Calories: 1,943
Total time: 4:49:04

I'd originally planned to hike up to McNeil Point but I lagged at home for too long. I knew Hamilton Mountain would be epic regardless of the weather.

On the ascent, I hiked up to Little Hamilton. The clouds were still plentiful overhead. I wasn't sure if the weather would turn or it would clear up. I still wore my single base layer.

I was feeling a little sluggish but pushed forward. I took several breaks and made sure to drink my Gatorade for the electrolytes and hydration. Once I reached the last section, I started to get a second wind. Knowing the top was close was a great motivator.

When I reached the summit, I felt good but a little tired. I decided not to do the Saddle-Equestrian-Don's Cutoff-Hardy Creek loop. Instead, I just did the out-n-back. It gave me the leisure to take my time on my descent and take some photos.

I stopped at Little Hamilton a second time on the descent. The clouds had cleared and it was gorgeous.

A bit further down the switchbacks, I explored a little side trail. It was a bit gnarly as it was a narrow trail with a steep drop-off. It made my knees weak. I sat down carefully and wished I'd had my foam pad.

As I approached the viewpoint near Hardy Falls, I caught up with a group of 4 that were going sort of slow. I hung back so I didn't crowd them. The person in the back noticed I was there and said something to the other three but they still didn't pull over.

I figured I'd pass them when the trail got wider near the stairs. They continued on the path so I keep a little cushion between us.

When I got to the other side of the ravine by the falls, I stopped to get my spectacles out. It was too dark for sunglasses. This increased the gap.

Somewhere nearby I did catch up and they let me pass. I said hello and wished them well, then picked up my pace.

Before I reached the power lines, I wasn't sure if I would stop at Little Beacon but when I got there, I saw the sun was still high in the sky but was approaching the horizon. I remember seeing a sign that the gate was closed at dusk. What did that mean? Sometime after sundown? I must have only meant the trailhead parking lot since I thought the campground was still open so probably not the gate at the bottom of the hill by Hwy 14.

Nevertheless, I still had time to visit Little Beacon and still have plenty of time.

I had the place to myself and it was great to just sit and listen to the silence, the wind. So worth the extra effort.

Table Mountain & Mt Adams

Beacon Rock, Columbia River

Bonneville Dam, Columbia River

North Bonneville, Columbia River, Oregon on other side

Bonneville Dam

Little Beacon Rock

Hike: Ape Cave Upper Passage, Cougar, WA

Getting There

It's 28 miles from Woodland to the Cougar. There are a couple of gas stations here. Continue east on SR-503 which becomes Rd 90 for 9.5 miles to Ape Cave. Looks for the sign to Ape Caves, June Lake, Climber's Bivouac, Ape Canyon & Lava Canyon which is Rd 83. It's 0.3 miles to Trail of Two Forests and 0.7 miles to Ape Cave.

I was here for an MSHI shift and normally I would just spend the day at the cave entrance, but I kinda wanted to explore the cave when fewer people were coming up. Last time I went through the upper passage was back in June. The more times I have first hand knowledge of the cave, the better I feel about giving info & advice.

Additionally, when I was driving past the Cougar RV Park & Campground, I saw a banner for a Spelunking meeting and noticed some people climbing & lowering on ropes from a tree visible from SR-503. It was the 2024 NSS Western Regional of the National Speleological Society, from Sept. 19th to 22nd!

The Hike

Distance: 2.64 miles
Elevation Gain: 377 feet
Maximum Elevation: 2,444 feet

In the afternoon when the crowds began to wane, I decided to take a spin through the upper passage. I left my visual aids tacked up to the kiosk.

I stowed my grocery bag behind the kiosk and donned my headlamp. I met some folks that weren't prepared: of the four people, only one had a flashlight and it was a cellphone light. They asked if I'd been in the cave before and I told them yes and that I was an MSHI volunteer. I recommended renting some lanterns from the Ape Cave store.

I didn't want to follow any one, so hung back while another group started their trek. When I couldn't see any lights ahead of me, I started cruising along. I could still hear some voice but at least they were getting the "full experience". I stopped a few times to take photos and the first rock pile after the "Big Room" took a while to get up and over.

I have a bunch of photos of the cave itself so I wanted to snap a few of the cave features including this "blowout". I heard another group approaching so I figured I'd wait and introduce myself. I explained how the "blowout" is formed. After chatting, they continued on and I said something sort of cringy. "I'll wait a minute but I'll be back here in the dark." Ugh.. why did I phrase it that way!! "I didn't mean it in creepy way". They laughed but maybe ironically. Durr!

I wanted to be out of the cave before 4:30p so I could still make my "out of service" call to Columbia on time. I took my time to be careful but didn't lollygag for too long at any one spot.

Eventually, I reached the first skylight. I thought about the story I heard from EMT Joe about having to rescue a woman that was stuck 1/2 way out of the hole. She couldn't get out and couldn't climb back down safely. Joe said they'd parked at the Cougar Sno-Park and accessed the skylight by traipsing through the forest.

I inspected the "route" and it looked sketchy. A slip from the first ledge would certainly result in at least an small injury.

 

I've been telling folks that neither the Lower or Upper caves have spots where you have to crawl around but I was wrong. Beside the Lava Falls wall and the squeeze point, there ARE a couple low spots in the Upper passage. I'll have to incorporate this info into my pre-hike spiel going forward.

The exit

The exit

 

 

 

Hike: Mt St Helens Summit, Cougar, WA

Getting There

From Portland: Take I-5 N for 28 miles to Woodland. Take Exit 21 for WA-503 E to Cougar. Follow Lewis River Road (WA-503) for 30 miles. Continue east for another 3.4 miles past Cougar on Road 90 and take NF-83 for Ape Cave/Climber's Bivouac. Take this road for 3 mile then turn left on FS-81 for 0.4 miles. Turn right onto Road 830 (dirt/gravel) and take that to Climber's Bivouac (2.2 miles).

I did make a couple of stops in Woodland. First, I went to Grocery Outlet to get a few more things that I forgot to get at New Seasons: bananas, plus I read that peanut butter and whole grain bread was a good food for sustained energy. I just ate the bananas whole but might be good to put in the sandwich as well as some honey.

I remember in the past, I've eaten a big slice of vegetarian lasagna but didn't want to buy a camp stove to heat it up. When I've stayed in Woodland, I've gotten to-go food from Mali Thai Cafe. I always remember it was piping hot and took awhile to cool down enough to eat. I thought it'd be a perfect noodle dish + protein (chicken) and would still be warm when I reached the Climber's Bivouac.

Oops. I forgot to get Gatorade at either of my grocery trips so I stopped at the Lakeside Country Store. I grabbed two bottles of sugar-free Gatorade and one more Clif bar to throw in my pack.

On the road up camp, I passed Ranger Trevor but he didn't recognize me in my car and not in MSHI colors.

I circled the lot once and found a good level spot. It was where I camped in 2022, the year I didn't reach the summit. No bad omen. LOL. It was adjacent to the pit toilet. I sent my mom a "I"m here message" on the Garmin but realized I had a cell signal: not sure if the iPhone 15+ has a better radio or cell coverage is better at camp. I noticed my coordinates were missing from the message (again!) so I sent a text message. I set up my cocoon in the back of the Jeep and ate my dinner. Soon it was dark and I got situated inside.

I slept pretty well but remember some cars that drove through the parking lot with high beams on (argh!) and one person that sat there with headlights on and foot on the brake. I was mildly annoyed thinking this person was idling and spewing exhaust just sitting there in the dark at 11pm. I realize I could tell if the engine was on and the tail lights really didn't illuminate my situation. 

I set an alarm for a 6am departure but when the time came, I was slow to get out of my sleeping bag. I eventually got up and started getting ready. I hit the trail at 6:40a.

The Hike

Length: 8.80 mi
Elev. gain: 4,531 ft
Moving time: 6:07:45
Avg pace: 41:47
Calories: 3,722
Total time: 9:23:49

Backstory

I've been down lately as the summer is coming to a close. There were some high points (volunteering with MSHI & mentoring new folks, working with WTA on trail work and log outs, getting my vest for 25 days of service) but there were some low points sprinkled in (dropping a large rock on my chest, a bout with vertigo and Benign paroxysmal positional vertigo (BPPV)). I also wasn't sure where I would be after a year living off Alberta but this time has buzzed by quickly.

Last time I did this climb (Sep 6, 2023), it was just a few days before I closed on my house on N Argyle (sale). The summer of 2023 was very difficult and this hike was a triumph of will, perseverance, and fitness, somewhat in spite of Rheumatoid arthritis. The previous year I had come up short on my climb, having turned back on the last section of trail. I was mentally beating myself and hadn't had the right foods/fuel.

I thought about Fred Beckey and how he continued to climb until he couldn't. Would I make it this time? I've always told myself that I was richer from my experiences and could find solace in those memories when the time came when I can no longer hike. I'm not sure I believe it but I also plan to drag my ass to the trail in whatever condition I'm in. Maybe I won't be able to tackle Hamilton Mtn or MSH but I'll put up with the hassle and discomfort to be in nature, even if the risk for self-rescue is higher. I remember seeing a guy with cerebral palsy that was out on the trail with his dog. I saw my future self in this person.

This year, I was determined to make it again despite some self-doubt. Also, I've been having R foot issues that threatened to thwart my attempt this year. I rented some Scarpa boots from the Mountain Shop on NE Sandy Blvd so my foot didn't flex and cause pain.

The Wooded Section

I got on the trail at 6:40a, still dressed for the cool weather. I imagined reaching the summit and convincing my brain that I could do it again. The power of the mind is potent. I took moments to appreciate where I was and how fortunate I am to be able to visit this place. The day was shaping up to be incredible with the weather and it made me smile.

Onto the Rocks

At the treeline at 4800', I met a guy that was resting on a rock. I said something about the clear skies. He'd just moved to Oregon and was looking forward to his climb. I mentioned some other nearby trails and wished him a successful summit.

Up on the first rock field, I'd stopped to shed a layer and adjust my pack when he caught up. A cloud had blown in front of the sun. I told him, "crap, I hope I didn't jinx the weather". As I continued up I waved and said "one step at a time, be safe".

Even though I had my sights on the summit, I set short term goals. The counting system worked well and setting milestones like a big rock or a lodge pole for my next break or water stop helped me keep my pace and stamina. I tried not to look towards the top too much because it seemed so far away. I was the tortoise in the The Tortoise and the Hare. I had plenty of time and no where to be.

The Vertical Beach

I realize the "beach" is a bit higher up but I knew I'd successfully made it passed the series of rocky steps and actual climbing. From here to the top is just a steep walk on loose pumice sand. I didn't take any photos of the vertical beach but it is deeper than this lower part. Two steps up, one step back. Hiking poles are key for minimizing backslide. I did have to pinch myself. I was feeling good physically, emotionally, and it is such an incredible place.

The Summit

Hell yeah!! I made it. I counted 10 or 12 sets of 20 on the last section. A couple was stopped: the guy was sitting and massaging his leg, staving off a cramp. I stopped and chatted with his partner. She recognized my MSHI patch and commented. It was a good diversion for me. I was outside of my head. I said I'd see them at the top and kept pushing.

When I finally took those last steps to the ridge and saw Spirit Lake, I was so fucking happy. This was my third time to the summit. I was really here. I felt pretty good. There wasn't any wind, the views were amazing in all directions. I could see Mt Rainier (Tahoma), Mt Adams (Klicktat/Pahto), Mt Hood, Mt Jefferson (Seekseekqua), and possibly Mt Washington.

I saw the couple I'd seen on the trail. We chatted some more and I told them I didn't want to leave but knew there was still a 3hr hike back down to the car. I mentioned the trail on the west side of the ravine below the boulders was a bit faster than weaving through the rocks. (I realize there is a similar trail between the rocky trail and my "shortcut"; maybe next time!).

I kept pace with several groups of hikers on their descent. One person asked me the best route but they were doing just fine and pulled ahead after a short while. I mentioned to one about not wearing gloves for the scramble down the boulders. I didn't mean it anyway other than I know my hands would have been shredded without my gloves.

Here is a shot of my alternate path. Maybe folks have used this route as evidenced by the boot prints in the soft pumice sand. It's not so much a shortcut as a path that has fewer obstacles to weave around. From the looks of it, there is a similar path on the other side of the ravine, below the lodge pole route I'd take up.

The "Shortcut"

Back to the woods

The last 2.5 miles was tough. My legs were so sore and my feet were complaining loudly. Each step was painful but I knew I was almost back to the forest trail which offered a softer dirt trail and shade. I'd left my sunscreen in the car so I knew my face was sun burnt.

A family of four had passed me on the rocks. I chatted with one guy that was waiting for his dad. We agreed it was great to be back to the trees. I wished him well and waved to the mom and the other son as they waited.

I tried my best to ignore the pain in my feet. I cursed at the check steps and exposed roots on my way down. The gift that keeps giving. LOL. I purposefully didn't check my map. I knew the trailhead would appear around the last turn eventually.

When I saw the sign about needing a permit after 4800', I was so relieved. I'd made it! Fuck yea!

Note of caution

Even though I consider this hike a resounding success, I have to acknowledge the three times that could have been terrible. Twice, I'd almost lost my footing on the boulders which could have resulted in a nasty fall and injury. I also had a close call on the shortcut. It's a reminder that despite it's popularity, accidents can happen, usually on the descent when you're tired and getting a little sloppy. In the end, they were close calls and not incidents that caused injury and/or required assistance. Whew. I wouldn't change a thing. 

What's next? 

Maybe Mt Adams, South Sister, a trip to Muir Camp, somewhere else. I think it's time to switch it up. I've done MSH 4 times with 3 summits. I want to bag some other peaks... while I can.

Hike: Lava Canyon, Mt St Helens NVM, Cougar, WA

Getting There

It's 28 miles from Woodland to the Cougar. There are a couple of gas stations here. Continue east on SR-503 which becomes Rd 90 for 9.5 miles to Ape Cave. Looks for the sign to Ape Caves, June Lake, Climber's Bivouac, Ape Canyon & Lava Canyon which is Rd 83. It's 0.3 miles to Trail of Two Forests and 0.7 miles to Ape Cave.

I had to drive through Chelatchie to pick up my radio for the next two days. I prefer to take NE Cedar Creek Road from Woodland, instead of going through Battle Ground & Amboy. However, I avoid Woodland for the return trip since the ongoing freeway work is causing 30-45 min delays.

The road washout between Marble Mountain Sno-Park and June Lake is proving to be less of a hindrance to most vehicles the longer it's like it is. It doesn't seem worse (or better) since I first drove through it at the beginning of summer.

The Hike

Length: 3.27 mi
Elev. gain: 853 ft
Moving time: 1:58:52
Avg pace: 36:22
Calories: 1,203
Total time: 2:27:51

On my way up to the trailhead, I wanted to grab a snapshot of mountain in all her glory and note the lack of snow coverage at this time in the late summer.

Mount St Helens (Lawetlat'la) from Cougar Sno-Park

MSHI trail crews, under leadership of Gail and Tom, were busy this summer maintaining the trails in the monument, including the Lava Canyon Trail below the suspension bridge. I'd only ever ventured a few feet past the bridge. I knew the trail dropped elevation quickly down to Smith Creek, fine if you were doing the loop but some good elevation gain on the way back up.

I knew it was hot and smoky but it didn't seem that bad. I'd hiked Ape Canyon a month or so earlier under similar conditions. The AQI was over 100 but I was determined to at least venture down to the "bottom" where the crews had completed their work.

Almost immediately, I got the heebie-jeebies with the narrow trail, loose rock under-foot, and nearly vertical drop 75-100+ feet. The cliffs in Eagle Creek are higher but the safety cable is very reassuring. There is no such luxury here. I treaded very cautiously, even on the wider spots that didn't have the immediate drop.

I was staring to get second thoughts but wanted to be brave. I was wearing the uniform of an experienced volunteer with the Mt St Helens Institute. In the shade it was alright but exposed the sun, I really started to feel tired and parched.... and I was going downhill. It must have been the combination of heat and wildfire smoke because my heart rate kept spiking with moderate effort.

I got the part of the trail where it's completely eroded away. I didn't dare jump because the stakes were very high. I sat down and shimmied my way forward until I could put my toes on the part of the trail where I could step down.

Whew! I made it! But, in the back of mind, I was thinking "crap, I'm going to have to get over this on the way back." I kept descending, with some reservations.

Lower Lava Canyon

Lower Lava Canyon - unnamed waterfall

Lower Lava Canyon

When I reached the 30 foot ladder, I decided that was it. No more. If I'd been with a hiking partner or other volunteer, I would have climbed down in a second. I had a brief vision of slipping and being found at the bottom. Yikes!

No thanks - looks perfectly stable but nope

I started back to the paved part of the trail. I had such difficulty. It felt like I had 10# weights on my ankles, and my heart was pounding so hard, I felt the need to stop for a rest to let it slow back. I had to repeat this process several times. I also drank a ton of water. for a 1.5 mile hike with about 900 ft of elevation gain, I drank the same amount of water I might have on a 10 mile hike with 2500 feet of EG.

I wondered then and now if the smoky, poor-quality air was the sole reason. I think I'm in reasonable shape but this made me feel like I'm vastly under-prepared for the outdoors. I kind of hope it was and that the air is breathable when I make my 4th summit attempt of MSH next week.

Lower Lava Canyon

Lower Lava Canyon

I was so relieved to finally round the corner and see the suspension bridge. I still had a little ways to climb on the trail but no more drop offs! I finally reached the paved section and sought shade on the metal bridge at the top of the first waterfall.

Lava carved by water for 2500 years

I rested for awhile and drank some water. I finally felt recovered and partially rejuvenated. I took a spin down the dead-end side of the bridge loop. I did hike a bit "offtrail" on top of the rocks where we would discourage visitors from going. "Do as I say, not as I do." I thought of a response if I'd seen a visitor. "I'm looking for trash and graffiti".

CLOSED! Lava Canyon Suspension Bridge

I finally called it a day after spending some time at the Lahar Viewpoint and ToTF. I wanted to snap of photo of Mitchell Peak for my roving report. The sky is blue, but not for the right reason.

Cough! Mitchell Peak+

Since the water has been shutoff again at Pine Creek, I found campsite at Swift Camp. In fact, the place was virtually empty. It gave me an excuse to try out my new tent.

My new 3-person tent from Next Adventure!